48 hours in PORTO
Nestled between the banks of the delightful River Douro and the vineyards from where it derives its name, Portugal’s second city, Porto, is the perfect place for a weekend away
Enjoy a beer at an authentic café as you people watch
PORTUGAL has never been more popular – almost 13 million tourists flocked to its picturesque shores in 2017, up an impressive 12 per cent, year on year. And while we’ve fallen in love with the capital, Lisbon, and sunned ourselves on the shores of the Algarve, the country’s second city – Porto – is fast becoming one of Europe’s top destinations for weekends away.
Boasting a tapestry-like history, Porto is so much more than a dock from which to export its delicious tipple. From the café culture of its medieval streets to a thriving art scene, the city is compact enough to explore in just 48 hours – but will certainly leave you wanting more.
FRIDAY
6pm: RELAX into your home for the weekend at a Portuguese pace; take a stroll down to Praça dos Leões (Praça Gomes Teixeira), a charming square where you can soak up the evening atmosphere. Enjoy a beer at one of the authentic cafés as you people watch. It’s close to the Lello Bookstore, a neo-Gothic icon of the city, where J K Rowling – who once taught English in Porto – is thought to have got her inspiration for Hogwarts.
9pm: WHETHER you’re a ravenous reader or not, you’ll certainly have worked up an appetite. Go for a late dinner at Clérigos Vinhos & Petiscos (Rua das Carmelitas 151). There, you’ll be able to enjoy the taste of the region, with tapas of suckling pig and calamari washed down with some of the full-bodied red wines which have made the port famous.
SATURDAY
9:30am: FORGET your full English – Porto is packed full of bakeries where you can start your day with a strong coffee and a freshly baked pastry. Head to the Padaria Ribeiro (Praça de Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 21), an establishment dating back to 1878, where the croissants will have you licking your lips until lunchtime.
11am: KICK off your sightseeing with a river cruise along the River Douro, which starts its journey down to the Atlantic Ocean from León. With prices starting at about €15 for an hour, you’ll be able to take in the exporting warehouses and the mammoth bridges which straddle the water. Look out for the Maria Pia Bridge, a structure designed by none other than Gustave Eiffel himself.
12:30pm: ABSORB the city’s religious history by taking in the wonders of Porto’s exquisite baroque churches. The Igreja do Carmo (Praça de Gomes Teixeira) dates back to the 1750s and is completely covered in elaborate blue and white tiles.
2pm: IT’S time to tackle one of Porto’s most famous dishes – the Francesinha! This gut-buster – known as the King of the Sandwiches – is a doorstep of bread, ham, sausage, beef and cheese served in a warm tomato sauce. One of the best places in town to try the ‘Little Frenchy’ is O Golfinho (Rua Sá Noronha, 137).
3:30pm: YOU’LL certainly be ready to walk off your lunch, so start with a gentle stroll around Porto’s Jardins do Palácio de Cristal (Rua de Dom Manuel II 282) – once modelled on London’s own Crystal Palace. Take in the 19th-century designs, as well as an amazing view of the Douro.
5pm: MAKE time to enjoy the city’s namesake drink at one of the many wine lodges dotted around the river. Head to Graham’s Port Lodge (Rua do Agro 141, 4400-281 Vila Nova de Gaia), one of the oldest Port wine producers, to fortify yourself for the evening ahead.
8pm: WHETHER you are in the mood for an authentic cantina or a Michelin-starred menu, Porto is a foodie’s paradise. Book in at Pedro Lemos (Rua do Padre Luís Cabral 974, 4150-128) where ingredients are sourced from local producers and each dish combines tradition with a modern twist.
10:30pm: IF YOU are in the party spirit, you can’t get livelier than joining the carnival-esque crowds on the streets of Clerigos. Grab a drink from one of the many tiny bars and join the fun-loving revellers who pack the sidewalks.
SUNDAY
10am: YOU’VE seen the city, now check out the coast. Head to the seafront at Foz to take a dip in the sea, lie on the sand or stroll along the promenade, ice cream in hand.
1pm: IF you want to pack more culture into your weekend, take in the delight of the art deco-style Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art, which is now Portugal’s most visited museum, and sits in the stunning grounds of a park.
4pm: HAIL a taxi or use the easily accessible metro to go back into Porto for a burger. Yes, while tapas and tripe are tradition, the city is serious about its patties. Get messy at Peebz (Rua da Señora da Luz 448, 4150-274), where juicy beef is served up on lightly toasted brioche buns, marking a tantalising ending to your trip.