SOUTH AFRICA SENSATION
Vast canyons and waterfalls, wildlife galore —the Panorama Route is a thrill
MATCHSTICK pines spike up amid wild forest. We fly over a hillside striped with erosion from an old goldmine, and open grassland traversed by a lolloping baboon before sweeping up over a ridge.
‘Woah!’ the ground disappears beneath us and sheer red rock rises on either side. Our ’copter dips and turns along the river’s path.
We are flying along the Blyde River canyon, claimed to be the third largest canyon in the world, and the only one verdant with subtropical vegetation.
it’s at the heart of south africa’s scenic Panorama Route in Mpumalanga Province (once the transvaal), four hours’ drive or a 35-minute flight north-east of Johannesburg.
the area is just half-an-hour by road from the kruger National Park, so it’s an ideal accompaniment to a big-five safari. there are plenty of hotels and guesthouses along the way, and you don’t have to splash out on rotor blades to enjoy the spectacular scenery — four wheels will do.
there are two ways to take in the landscape: on leisurely drives, stopping off at evocatively-named viewpoints; or with lashings of adrenaline, freefalling 68 metres on the Big swing, white water rafting, zipwiring, horseriding, quad- biking, or abseiling down a waterfall.
We choose the former and begin in the Lowveld town of hazyview, which is also the ‘adventure capital’ so a great starting point for thrill seekers.
it’s surrounded by macadamia nut and banana plantations, and home to the helipad at hippo hollow — with resident hippos. at Perry’s Bridge trading Post we pick up maps and supplies and head off.
First stop is ‘Wonderview’, next to ‘God’s Window’ and offering the same 180-degree panorama without the entry fee or closing time. it’s like being in the helicopter and staring down 1,000 metres onto the plains below: a tableau of greens decorated with rivers and matchbox houses (government-built ‘tribal settlements’ our guide tells us).
We are standing on the edge of the Drakensberg ( Dragons’ Mountains) Escarpment, the mighty ridge that rims the central african plateau. We can see all the way to Mozambique. it isn’t always clear — hazyview is so-named for a reason.
at the three Rondavels we watch as the round green-thatched rocks, named after traditional african huts, emerge atmospherically from the mist.
at Bourke’s Luck Potholes, in a narrow gorge crossed by footbridges 30 metres above the water, whirlpools have drilled out perfect cylinders.
Beyond the gorge is a beautiful spot for a walk. the River treur ( sad River) and the Blyde (Joyful) meet, gurgling over a field of rocks.
THE rivers were named by the Dutch Voortrekkers, the first white settlers who arrived by ox-cart in the 19th century. the Voortrekkers farmed the land here for more than a century and a half. Our white guide finds it infuriating when people ask him about ‘the locals’, ‘as if i am not a local!’
it seems as if everyone is trying to get along, but the economic divide still remains. Most of the service staff are black, as are all the stallholders selling crafts and souvenirs. the best of these stalls are at Berlin Falls where olive-wood bowls, pots, carvings and african cloths are sold at flexible prices.
the falls stem from a little stream that potters along before tipping over a rock edge and transforming into a crashing tower of water.
impala skitter past and wild horses graze in the distance, as we drive to Lone creek Falls. here, we find a weekend party in full swing, with rap beats from a minibus, while a braai — barbecue — fills the air with delicious smells.
south africans love their meat — preferably cooked on an open fire. We don’t have the wherewithal for our own braai so we head back to hazyview and let Pioneer’s Grill do it for us. after savouring their ostrich and kudu steaks i understand this obsession with south africa. and i’m fortified for another day exploring the extraordinary landscape.
TRAVEL FACTS
TRAILFINDERS ( trailfinders. com, 020 7368 1200) offers tailormade trips to South Africa. Five nights cost from £1,249 pp, staying two nights at Hallmark House, Johannesburg and three at Protea Hotel by Marriott Hazyview, both B&B. Includes South African Airways flights and transfers. Valid for selected September departures. More info: southafrica.net