Daily Mail

Bring back pub grub!

Diners in backlash against ‘MasterChef-mad’ menus

- By Sean Poulter Consumer Affairs Editor

FROM carrot fluff to fish foam, pub-goers say they are fed up with seeing fancy ‘ cheffy’ creations on the menu in place of good old-fashioned classics.

People popping out for a beer and a bite to eat simply crave a hearty roast or pie and mash rather than dishes that require a degree in gastronomy to understand, it is claimed.

The warning to ‘MasterChef-mad’ publicans comes from the editor of the Good Pub Guide 2019, who says attempts to take menus upmarket, substituti­ng chickpeas for chips, risks driving customers away.

Fiona Stapley said: ‘Pretentiou­s menus are a real turn-off. Pub-goers don’t want the fancy stuff down at their local pub.

‘Our readers tell us they are fed up of asking waiters to explain a dish or having to use their mobiles to decipher a menu.’

Britons are not interested in eating head-scratching ingredient­s and meals such as kabsa, katsuobush­i, matbucha, succotash, tataki or verjus in a pub, she said.

‘Pubs and good food now go hand in hand but many chefs appear to have gone MasterChef-mad,’ Miss Stapley added.

‘We really don’t want our dishes adorned with carrot fluff [souffled carrot], edible sand [a cake topping] or fish “foam” [a style of cooking fish]. Leave that to the swanky restaurant­s. We want good honest pub grub. We’ve been baffled by the descriptio­ns and products used.

‘In 37 years of the guide’s existence, fancy food fads have come and gone, but what always stands fast is honest cooking using tip-top local, seasonal ingredient­s – but ones that we can all recognise.’

The guide features more than 5,000 pubs and is based on customer recommenda­tions, backed up by editor inspection­s. If the meals are proving hard for some to swallow, the guide’s finding on beer prices suggests drinkers might like to sip rather than gulp their pints.

The average price of a pint in Britain has risen by 9p in the last year to hit £3.69.

However costs can vary by £1 across the country, with London coming in priciest at £4.44 a pint and Shropshire and Herefordsh­ire the cheapest at around £3.37.

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