THE THRILLS OF SEVILLE
Flamenco is just one way to enjoy the wild spirit of this elegant Spanish city
Seville’s motto is ‘she has not deserted me’. in the 13th century the city rose in favour of King Alfonso the Wise against a rebellious son. Nowadays, it’s the tourists who don’t desert her. From the splendour of the cathedral to the alleys of the old Jewish Quarter, it is a place to wander and wonder.
HISTORY LESSON
As the birthplace of Roman emperors, trajan and his wall building successor hadrian, seville’s classical origins are apparent. there are magnificent ruins, including a 25,000- seat amphitheatre at nearby italica.
By the 16th century, seville was at the heart of spain’s Golden Age, due to its exclusive Royal licence for all trade with the newly discovered Americas.
Notorious fictional knight Don Quixote was brought to life here in 1597 while his creator was in the Royal Jail of seville. the country’s greatest painter Diego velazquez was born here two years later.
SPIRIT OF THE CITY
seville centres around its river, the Guadalquivir, and cathedral. in the old gipsy quarter of triana, they claim to have invented not just flamenco but the guitar. You’ll find impromptu music performances in bars, most notably the singers at Bar Rejoneo on calle Betis.
Flamenco dancing is harder to find and even aficionados make do with tablao shows. the best is at los Gallos in the Plaza de santa Cruz. On the east side of the river is Maria luisa Park, with its converted palaces and fountains. the high point is the Plaza de espana, backdrop to movies from lawrence Of Arabia to star Wars.
seville’s cathedral, one of the largest on earth, is a Gothic wonder. Once a Roman temple, and then a Mosque, it is best described by those who made it: ‘so beautiful and so grandiose that those that see our work will think us mad.’ it also houses the tomb of Christopher Columbus.
PASS TO THE PALACES
the four great palaces of seville — Palacio de las Duenas, Casa Pilatos, hospital de la Caridad and Casa salinas — offer a discounted ‘passport’ to all, with an elegant walking route mapped between them. this gives you access to a score of grand salons containing more than 2,000 works of art, ten gardens, mosaics and seville’s architecture from the 16th century to the fading grandeur of the 19th ( casaspalacio.com).
TAPAS TIME
the first glass of the day is best taken at Casa Matias, on calle Arfe in el Arenal, where Matias himself still sings. Around the corner is Casa Morales on Garcia de vinuesa, for the local beer Cruzcampo, a chilled dry manzanilla sherry or a rioja.
their speciality is lomo al jerez — pork loin on toast with truffle oil. the best jamon iberico is at las teresas on calle santa teresa in Barrio santa Cruz.
HOW TO DO IT
the palatial Neo- Moorish Alfonso Xiii hotel, opened in 1929, is set in pretty gardens between the river and the 18th century Royal tobacco factory, famous as the setting for Bizet’s Carmen and now the main building of the University of seville. Rooms from £ 262, hotelalfonsoxiii
While the boutique Corral del Rey in the Barrio Alfalfa is more informal and central. Rooms from £274, corraldelrey.com.
easyJet ( easyjet.com, 0330 365 5000) flies to seville from £62 return.