Cheesed off!
Backlash over first vegan cheese shop – because the name ‘misleads shoppers’
AS Monty Python once said, ‘ Blessed are the Cheesemakers’ – unless you are Charlotte and Rachel Stevens, that is.
Because, in a dispute worthy of the famous skit from the Life of Brian, the joint owners of Britain’s first vegan cheese store are battling the dairy industry over whether their ‘artisan cheeses’ are worthy of the name.
Vegan cheese does not contain milk, comes in many varieties and is made from an assortment of plant-based ingredients such as cashew and coconut.
Within days of opening in Brixton, south London, La Fauxmagerie received a letter from Dairy UK, the dairy industry’s trade association, asking it to stop describing products as ‘cheese’ because it misleads shoppers. Rachel, 26, and sister Charlotte, 30, began the business after ditching their day jobs. They call the objections ‘ridiculous and ‘unnecessary’.
The shop was hailed a success among vegans with dairy-free cheddar, camembert, mozzarella and halloumi on offer. ‘We just thought we were opening a little dairy-free cheese shop,’ said Rachel, a former Marks & Spencer merchandise worker.
‘We expected attention because we knew we’d be the first in the country, but didn’t expect to ruffle feathers. Dairy UK sent a letter to the shop.’ Rachel Stevens, who became fully vegan this year, said the dairy giant’s claim ‘discredits and underestimates the intelligence’ of their customers.
She added: ‘It’s clear in the name of our business that we are selling dairy-free products. Our tagline clearly states we are a plant-based cheesemonger.
‘We make a point on our website to say we’re not pressuring people and a lot of meat eaters come into the shop. Cheese was the main focus for us because that’s the thing people miss most when they go dairy free. We sell award-winning cashew, almond, soy and brown rice-based cheeses. I understand people might be sceptical because the food culture is very meat heavy.’
Dairy UK did not respond to a request for comment.