Bologna for under £100 a night
THERE’S something addictive about Bologna, with its long porticoed streets, sun-baked squares, cavernous churches and labyrinthine lanes dotted with bars and cafes. It is home to the western world’s oldest university (dating from the 11th century) and there are tremendous towers that make the mind boggle. The capital of the Emilia-Romagna region retains a delightfully sleepy feel — perfect for a lazy weekend . . . WHERE TO STAY Hotel University
CLOSE to the campus, this small hotel with 22 smart rooms is on a narrow street with pink and ochre old buildings. It’s popular with parents visiting children attending the university, but it also suits those after simple lodgings in a central location. B&B doubles from £82 (hoteluniversitybologna.com)
Best Western Hotel San Donato
DON’T let the chain-brand name put ut you off. This is in an ancient building ng converted into a functional hotel with th original features such as arches and nd pillars. The rooftop terrace has views of Bologna’s leaning towers. Rooms are re modern and spacious. B&B doubles from £94 (hotelsandonato.it)
Albergo delle Drapperie
THIS friendly little hotel is on a tiny iny street busy with bakeries, wine ine merchants, fishmongers and antique que shops. It’s in the heart of the city, justt off the Piazza Maggiore. The 20 roomsms are colourful and restful; the best tucked away on the top floor with exposed beams. Beware the steps to the first-floor reception. B&B doubles from £90 (albergodrapperie.com)
Art Hotel Orologio
EVEN closer to Piazza Maggiore, this hotel lives up to its name with eye-catching art and slick public areas with sculptures and mirrors. Some rooms have views of the piazza and the hills beyond the city. Rates can creep over £100, but if you book in advance, the cheapest deals are available. B&B doubles from £94 (art-hotelorologio.com). Prices can fluctuate.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Free entry to the Basilica WANDER into San Petronio Basilica and marvel at this fine red- brick church, dedicated to the city’s 5th-century bishop, St Petronius. It has pride of place on Piazza Maggiore and was originally planned to be bigger than St Peter’s in Rome. When Catholic authorities heard of this, however, funds were diverted. It’s still pretty massive: 132m long, 60m wide and 45m tall.
Climb the leaning tower
OK, so this is not free — a ticket to ascend Bologna’s remarkable Torre degli Asinelli, a tower built for an important family in the 12th century, costs £4.30. Buy tickets at the tourist information centre on Piazza Maggiore, where you can choose a time slot. The 498- step ascent is invigorating (and tough), but what great views: the tower rises 97 metres and leans precariously westwards more than two metres. The setting is fabulous, with the Torre Garisenda almost alongside.
Museums galore
BOLOGNA Welcome cards allow entry to all the city’s main museums and galleries, including the contemporary art gallery, the archaeological museum and Pinacoteca Nazionale (home to one of northern Italy’s most important collections of fine art). There are more than 50 museums and galleries in all. The card also includes a walking tour (£21, bolognawelcome.com). Another version includes a train ride, an ascent of the Torre degli Asinelli and other benefits, and costs £ 34. They can be purchased at the tourist office on the main square or online.
Bag a bargain at the market
HEAD to Piazza VIII Agosto on Saturday to browse dozens of stalls offering cut-price clothes, shoes, and arts and crafts. It’s a higgledy-piggledy affair with all sorts of great deals. For more information on antique and vintage markets see
Check out a street stall
THE Quadrilatero district just off Piazza Maggiore is full of delightful food stalls and kiosk-like cafes in its tangle of tiny streets. It was here that the craft guilds of the city such as goldsmiths, butchers, fishermen,
salaroli (workers who salted meat to preserve it), the furriers, barbers and the painters were all based from medieval times. Go a little further eastwards and you are soon in the university district, which is great for ice creams, cheap pizzas and food stalls selling tapas, salads and pasta with ragu. Bologna is known locally as La Grassa (‘the fat one’) and you soon find out why. Pasta with ragu ( not spaghetti bolognese!) is usually about £5-£10.
Get lost on a ramble
BOLOGNA is flat and it’s a pleasure simply to walk beneath the miles of porticos (25 miles in total and remarkably cool even on a baking day). Explore little neighbourhoods and stop off at a cafe for an 85p espresso or a £1.70 glass of wine or beer.
HOW TO GET THERE
BRITISH AIRWAYS has returns from Heathrow from £70 (0844 4930787, A public bus from the airport to the centre is £5 and takes around 30 minutes.