48 hours in COSTA RICA
While it may not have inspired songs like its US namesake, Costa Rica’s buzzy capital has plenty of experiences worth singing about
FOR many of the 1.7 million tourists who visit Costa Rica every year, its capital city, San José, is merely a stop off. This bustling hub may not immediately seem like an inviting place to stay in comparison to the lush nature reserves and jungle beaches of the country’s southern coast, but a little exploration unveils an utterly charming side to this neoclassical gem.
DAY 1
9am: Get to know the city at its heart by starting at the Central Market on Avenida Central. Ignore the American fast-food juggernauts which have set up camp here and search out fruit, spices and local produce spilling from stalls in its alleyways.
11am: Stroll over to Plaza de la Cultura, a buzzy square perfect for people watching. After seeing the locals, tourists and vendors go by, head to one of San José’s most intriguing cultural institutions – the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum. Set in a subterranean building beneath the plaza, this is a literal treasure trove of ancient artefacts, including jewels, coins and icons of fallen civilisations.
1pm: All that history will have worked up a hunger; head down to La Fuente and grab a table for two. Like many things in San José, substance should never be judged by setting – and this little seafood restaurant is the perfect example. It’s set next to a busy highway, but you’ll be stunned by amazing dishes, including fresh ceviche and lobster (La Fuente de los Mariscos, Centro Commercial de San Jose, 2000 San José).
3pm: Walk off a hearty lunch by heading to the city’s biggest green space, La Sabana Metropolitan Park. Known as the ‘lungs of San José’, this area has been a public park since the 1970s, and has seen a huge rise in the number of
Dine in style at this boutique hotel, once a tropical Victorian mansion
native trees planted to invite Costa Rica’s diverse birdlife back to the city.
4pm: La Sabana is also home to the Costa Rican Art Museum, which is set in the city’s old airport building. Alongside updated exhibitions of contemporary work, the museum has permanent collections from some of Latin America’s most famous artists, including José Sancho, Francisco Zúñiga and Max Jiménez and is the base for the most complete Costa Rican art collection in the world.
8pm: Experience the grander side of San José by booking a table for dinner at the restaurant of the Grano de Oro hotel. This boutique hotel – voted best hotel in South America and the Caribbean in 2018 – was once a tropical Victorian mansion and you dine in style on both European and Costa Rican dishes curated by French chef Francis Canal from local, sustainable ingredients.
DAY 2
10am: Get to see any landscapes you didn’t catch on the first day with a San José bike tour, usually lasting around two hours and costing from £30. Make sure you cycle through the splendour of Morazán Park.
12pm: Most cycle tours start at Central Market and end outside one of San José’s most stunning and dramatic buildings: the National Theatre. Opened to the public in 1897, this opulent venue has played an unparalleled role in the city’s arts scene and offers tourists hourly tours of its extravagant stage, ceiling frescoes and secret smoking room below. (teatronacional.go.cr)
2pm: Head to the arty area of Escalante for lunch at Kalu. Run by French-Costa Rican chef Camille Ratton, this restaurant focuses on the importance of sharing food and celebrating relationships over delicious dishes. And with hearty and healthy fare inspired by cuisines around the world, there’ll certainly be plenty to savour (Calle 31, San José).
4pm: Barrio Escalante has enjoyed a transformation from a residential area to one of the capital’s trendiest neighbourhoods – and makes the perfect place to while away the rest of your afternoon. Wander around shops, stalls and stands to find a souvenir or simply join the locals for a craft beer at one of the many bars lining the streets.
8pm: Add some Latin flavour to your last few hours in San José by tasting the ‘world’s best mojito’ at Cuban venue La Bodeguita Del Medio, a vibrant place to spend an eventful evening in Costa Rica’s surprising first city (Av 4, San José).