Marseilles for £100 a night

FRANCE’S oldest city dates from 600BC when it was settled by Greeks from Phocaea. Since then it’s seen bubonic plague, been attacked by Visigoths and was a French Revolution hotbed (hence the national anthem, La Marseillaise). The sense of history is strong — plus beaches, bouillabaisse and budget flights, of course.

Where to stay Mama Shelter

ACTORS, pop singers and football players hang out at the bar of this hip hotel, just east of the Old Port (Vieux Port). Expect arty rooms with charcoal-grey carpets and designer lights. DJs play in the lively bar/restaurant from 9pm, with live music on Sundays. Doubles from £68; breakfast £15pp (mamashelter.com).

Hotel Alex

RIGHT by Gare de Saint Charles, train station (where airport shuttle buses arrive), but don’t be put off by the location. Rooms are neat and comfortable, if a little cramped. The bar/lounge has a retro Seventies feel, plus there’s a basement steam room and sauna. Doubles from £52; breakfast £12 pp (alex-hotel.fr).

Best Western Plus Hotel La Joliette

YES, it’s a brand favoured by business travellers, but this makes a great base. The small-ish rooms are colourful and smart, and there’s a pool and steam room. Doubles from £85; breakfast £13pp (hotel-joliette.com).

NH Collection Marseille

CLOSE to the Old Port and the higgledy-piggledy streets of Le Panier, this is a well-run new hotel in a grand former apartment block dating from 1907. Rooms are minimalist and there’s a jolly bar and restaurant (with top-notch breakfasts). Rates above £100 in peak periods. Doubles from £96; breakfast £19pp (nh-hotels.com).

B&Bs by the station

CASA Ortega and Pension Edelweis are two great B&Bs near Gare de Saint Charles, with vintage furniture and friendly owners. B&B doubles from £77 (casaortega.fr; pension-edelweiss.fr). Prices can fluctuate.

Where to eat Le Petit Cabanon

ASK A local where to get a cheap, well-made bouillabaisse and you will be met with a snappy: ‘If it is cheap, it is not good.’ While the famous fish stew may set you back £ 60 at the first- rate Miramar restaurant ( lemiramar. fr), a decent version can be had nearby at Le Petit Cabanon for £25. 8 Cours Jean Ballard, 13001 (lafourchette.com)

Chez Sauveur

CONNECTIONS with Italy are strong; many Italian immigrants settled in Marseilles last century. This popular pizzeria dates from 1943 and is in the lively Noailles district east of the Old Port. Enjoy pizzas from £10. 10 Rue d’Aubagne, 13001 (chezsauveur.fr)

Le Corbusier

THIS restaurant is on the third floor of an apartment block built by the Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier in 1951. Menus in the Fifties restaurant might comprise asparagus starter, followed by grilled fish with a lemon tart dessert (three courses £28). Hotel rooms with Corbusier- period designs are from £68. 280 Boulevard Michelet, 13008 (hotellecorbusier.com)

Les Terrasses du Port

THIS shopping mall faces the ‘new port’ of Marseilles in the rejuvenated second arrondissement. Grab a sandwich from one of the ground-floor stalls (about £4.30) and enjoy the view from the top. lesterrassesduport.com

How to get there

EASYJET has returns from Gatwick from £44 ( easyjet.com). A return airport shuttle bus is £12.