Explore MALTA
With its fascinating history and dramatic coastline, Malta is so much more than a beach getaway
STAY in one of its pristine limestone towns or on a cliff by the sea, and you’ll find as much fresh-off-the-boat seafood, fine Mediterranean wine, gorgeous architecture and scenery as you could wish for – plus, of course, plenty of sun all year round.
CITY DELIGHTS
A FINGER of land set within a sheltered harbour, the island’s capital city of Valletta comes with its own natural moat, which the Knights of Malta took full advantage of when they settled here 450 years ago. They added fortified gates to protect the city from invaders, which successive generations have replaced.
Most recently Renzo Piano, the architect of London’s Shard, designed a new set, inspired by ancient Maltese architecture. His elegantly sculpted City Gate radiates a warm amber glow. A meeting place, open-air theatre and symbol for the 21st-century city, it buzzes with activity.
On your way into town, take a moment to admire the newly refurbished Phoenicia, an art deco hotel surrounded by tropical gardens, with classical columns and marine-blue rooms. The first hotel on the island when it opened in 1947, it’s a glamorous city landmark and does a magnificent afternoon tea.
On streets as straight as bowling lanes, the Maltese glide from folksy family cafés to wine bars that spill out into piazzas strung with fairy lights. They pray at St John’s Co-Cathedral, flamboyantly decorated in gilt and canvases by Caravaggio, and gather in sultry Upper Barrakka Gardens to watch cannons blast the Noon Day Gun salute, an old fisherman’s ritual.
At cocktail hour, board a dgħajsa, or traditional Maltese gondola, for a gentle cruise across the harbour. Hop out at the dome-studded city of Birgu, the knights’ official seat back in the day. In ancient limestone manors, you’ll now find wine bars like Del Borgo or Tal Petut, where a local crowd nibbles sausage tapas and homemade ravioli.
SEA LIFE
DRIVING the rocky coast north of Valletta, pull over at Tigne Point to look back for beautiful views of the capital, and across to the wide seaside promenades of Sliema, gateway to the Maltese Riviera. Depending on your interests, you can stay here at the beach clubs of sandy St George’s Bay, or you
could cut across the island to Golden Bay. It’s a giant wedge of brown-sugar sand, where everyone seems to squeeze on to a small sliver of beach behind a hotel, leaving the rest of Golden Bay empty. When you’ve had enough of idle sunbathing, grab your things and hike over a small strip of land to reach two other beaches. The first, Ghajn Tuffieha, will take your breath away with its wispy crescent of sand. Scramble down and enjoy a walk in the fresh sea air. Over the next point is a remote spit of sand also worth exploring, Gnejna Bay.
For those who prefer wild coasts, there’s Malta’s sister island, Gozo. Divers and snorkellers come here from all over the world to swim in its pristine waters. Visibility is as impressive as the diversity – caves, wrecks, rocky coves and warm waters make this a must-visit for underwater aficionados.
The narrow cove Mgarr ix-Xini offers some of the best swimming and snorkelling in the country. Stretch out on one of the rocks that sweep down from the road, and cliff-jump into the clear blue – one of Europe’s top wild swims. And down the coast at Xwejni Bay, you can sun and swim with views to the spectacular salt flats, just up on shore.
MOUNTAIN HIGHS
ONE of Malta’s most fascinating sights is Mdina, the 1,300-year-old fortress built on the island’s tallest peak and filled with regal limestone villas. Hearing nothing but the clip-clop of a horse-drawn carriage as you stroll past the distinctive red dome of the cathedral, you’ll appreciate its nickname: the Silent City. With fewer residents than Vatican City, the old fortress is peaceful indeed.
Not to be outdone, Gozo recently restored its soaring Victoria fortress and gleaming limestone cathedral. Too precious for cars, Victoria’s medieval streets and ancient stone walls spiral upward for a satisfying morning walk, with 360-degree views of the coast. Stop at a local trattoria for plates of crumbly homemade goat’s cheese, local Cabernet and bowls of rich rabbit stew, a Maltese tradition. Then work it off on the steps to the spectacular baroque cathedral, built atop a Roman temple.
Though you’ll never get to all the churches on Malta and Gozo – there were 365 at the last count – Ta’ Pinu on Gozo is worth a visit. Towering over the dusty rural hills west of Victoria, the sacred site is rumoured to have a miraculous power. Crutches and casts left by worshippers hang in the corridors and photos of congregants with babies and elders plaster the walls in testimony to their miracles.
It provides a religious experience surpassed only by the Maltese sunset – as uplifting as they come.
The baroque cathedral is built on a Roman temple