48 hours in HOLBOX
Explore one of the less visited hotspots off Mexico’s Yucatán peninsula
“The streets are a blur of brightly painted buildings
MEXICO’S white sandy beaches, turquoise water and atmospheric nightlife have long attracted holidaymakers in search of winter sun. With weather at its best during our winter months, a reasonable 11-hour flight time (flights depart weekly from most major UK airports), plenty of local culture and a reputation for sophisticated hospitality, Mexico takes some beating; however, the crowded coastline from Riviera Maya to Tulum no longer feels like such a hidden gem.
Step forward the Yucatán peninsula’s newest laid-back hangout; Isla Holbox. An hour and 45 minutes’ drive from Cancún airport is the port of Chiquila, from which the Holbox Express ferries depart from every half hour. Holbox is a small, narrow island – just 1.5km wide and 40km long – and is lined with idyllic white-sand beaches. There’s an infectious, easy-going energy here: people walk around barefoot, travel by bike and the biggest decisions each day is where to lay down your towel… followed by what cocktail to wash down your taco lunch with.
DAY 1
Morning: Holbox is virtually car free, so your hotel transfer will be via a yellow Holcar golf buggy, Holbox’s version of the New York City cab. Casa Sandra and Casa Las Tortugas are widely considered to be the island’s best hotels – the latter offering pretty, rustic interiors and lively beachfront restaurant Mandarina.
Mornings at Casa Las Tortugas start with yoga at 8am (which is optional, but it’s a lovely, relaxing class, if you feel so inclined), before a simple alfresco breakfast of fresh juice, homemade bread and eggs or yoghurt and granola. The restaurant leads directly on to the beach, where the sea is impossibly clear and, once you settle in, between reading and swimming, the day will quickly escape you.
Afternoon: Make time if you can for a walk or cycle – you can hire bikes from the main street that Casa Las Tortugas is on and a comprehensive tour of the island shouldn’t take more than half an hour or so.
The palm-lined streets on the island are a blur of brightly painted buildings in shades of fuchsia, turquoise, teal, lemon and orange with palapa or terracotta-tiled rooftops and local shops featuring beautiful painted illustrations and signs that look like works of art. Local smoothie bar Tierra Mia is a great place to stop and refuel; local fruit is cubed and frozen, then blended to order, and the signature pineapple, mango and coconut smoothie takes some beating.
Evening: For evening, modern restaurant Básico is a five-minute walk from Casa Las Tortugas; you can’t miss it for the bright zigzag tiles, neon signs and lush indoor palms that line the entrance. The cocktails are excellent; both the mezcal sour and passion-fruit margarita are highly recommended. Nor does the food menu disappoint, with everything from tempura octopus to tuna with crispy vegetables and guacamole with a side of crispy grasshoppers (a local speciality), all as delicious as it is Instagrammable.
DAY 2
Morning: At the very tip of the island you’ll find the quite frighteningly named Punta Mosquito: head here between 7am and 10am for your best chance to catch a glimpse of the island’s resident flamingos, which tend to be out in force at this time. Afternoon: The open-sided café in Painapol is the ideal place to stop off for an afternoon bite. It serves delicious pressed juices, open sandwiches and avocado toast – perfect antidote to the heavier Mexican fare you tend to find elsewhere on the island and inland.
Evening: On your final night, head first to Luuma for cocktails; outdoor lighting, wicker furniture and decked flooring set the tone at this chic modern bar and eatery. For traditional Mexican fare, head to Viva Zapata for dinner, which is both lively, yet low key; otherwise, for unbeatable pizza, Roots is a failsafe for a rustic and delicious late-night bite.
Holbox may be off the beaten track, but it has everything you might need on your paradise wish list.