Palermo for under £100 a night
The Mafia may — thankfully — no longer be in control, but Sicily’s seductive capital is still obsessed with death. Whether it’s the corpses in the catacombs, or the torture cells of the Inquisition, the place is packed with reminders that, sooner or later, your number will be up. For those who find this disturbing, there are also countless incredible churches. And beaches. And ice cream. Go now, while it’s still cheaper than almost anywhere else in Italy.
Where to stay ÷ B&B Gallidoro
THIS warm, family-run B&B is bang in the centre of the old part of town, making it a good base for exploring. It’s a pleasingly crumbly palazzo, built around a central courtyard with laundry strung across: just the kind of place you’ll have been hoping for.
Chiara and Alessio will make you welcome and give you excellent, practical advice. Doubles from £45 (gallidoro.it)
÷ Stanze Al Genio
THIS will be one of the most beautiful hotels you’ll ever stay in. From the age of 12, the owner began collecting majolica tiles to create a striking boutique museum (£ 8 for entrance and tour).
His B&B consists of only four rooms — all exquisitely decorated with his tiles — so book well in advance. Doubles from £76 (stanzealgeniobnb.it)
÷ Butera Apartments
THeSe gracefully decorated apartments are in the palazzo that was home to Tomasi di Lampedusa while he was writing The Leopard. Your hosts are the present Duke and Duchess of Palma.
For an extra £135 you can join in a day-long cookery course with t h e ebullient duchess. It’s hardly cheap, but it’s an unforgettable experience. Apartments from £72 (butera28.it)
÷ L’Olivella B&B
THIS former silver factory retains period details despite its gleaming modern look. It’s also conveniently located not far from the imposing Teatro Massimo.
There are only five rooms, though, so be sure to plan ahead. Doubles from £54 (olivellabb.it)
Where to eat ÷ Bisso
THIS atmospheric, unpretentious trattoria is housed in a former bookshop on Quattro Canti — the crossroads that marks the centre of Palermo’s old town.
Al dente pasta dishes with a zingy fresh sauce start at around £5, while a carafe of tart house white costs the same. Go early or late: it’s pretty popular. Via Maqueda (039 328 131 4595)
÷ Buongustaio
For incomprehensible reasons, the lights in this family-run osteria are glaringly bright. Go for the help- yourself antipasti and the authenticity.
on the way there, take a stroll around Piazza Pretoria — also known as the Piazza of Shame because of the nudity of the figures around the central fountain. Via Venezia (039 091 334714)
÷ Osteria Ballaro
THe waiters are a bit snooty in this upmarket restaurant, but the food is excellent. once I’d negotiated the Bible-sized menu, I went for smoked piglet (£14) and didn’t regret it. A street food selection as a starter includes the Palermo speciality panelle and costs £11. Via Calascibetta (039 091 326488)
÷ Street food
PALerMo’S Arabic history dates back to the 8th century. You can see it in the style and substance of its three main food markets, which resemble Arab souks.
Skip breakfast and take a three-hour ‘street food’ walking tour with an experienced guide ( streaty.com). It costs £35 allincluded — a downright bargain for a culinary education.
÷ Cioccolateria Lorenzo
THIS charming cafe, a stone’s throw from Piazza Marina, is one of those places where it’s hard to tell the staff from the clientele — and when you do get someone’s attention, they appear a little affronted.
But the coffee and the patisseries are excellent, and the garden — a cool corridor beside a crumbling wall — is a haven. Via IV Aprile (039 091 273 3852) How to get there eASYjeT has return flights from London Gatwick from £53 ( easyjet.com).