48 hours MONTENEGRO

With majestic mountains, crystal-clear waters and a history as breathtakingly diverse as its landscape, minute Montenegro proves to be big on experiences

Watch the peacocks strut by

SITTING on the border carving up east and west, Montenegro has always held its own, despite its tiny size. But don’t be fooled by this petiteness (it’s two thirds the size of Wales): this Adriatic nation packs a punch when it comes to weekend-away offerings.

Roman villas sit alongside ornate churches in ancient walled towns, watched over by sheer mountains disappearing into azure coastline. Then there’s the scent; a mix of heady green conifers and wild herbs. It’s a smell you’ll want to bottle and take home with you.

Whether you’re a European-history buff (find out more about its 50-year foray into communism), head over heels with highland hikes through rugged forests, or simply like lazing on beaches, there is a real buzz around this Balkan beauty for 2020, making it the ideal place to enjoy 48 hours in a new land.

DAY 1

Morning: Start your trip off on a high, literally, by heading straight to the Lovćen National Park. While not Montenegro’s biggest, it is considered its best nature reserve when it comes to having it all: wildlife, landscape and history. While walking across its rocky terrain is a test in itself, the park is a pull for adrenaline junkies who can quad bike and zip-line around the place to their hearts’ content. For those looking for a bit more culture, a visit to the mausoleum of Montenegro’s beloved historical leader, Petar Petrović-Njegoš II, is a must. A bishop and a poet, the cosmopolitan prince ruled from 1830 to 1851.

He was born in the village of Njegoš, on the site of the reserve, and his gold-and-marble-decorated resting place offers up amazing views of what was once his kingdom, as well neighbouring Croatia and, if the conditions are right, Albania.

Afternoon: On the drive back, stop at Cetinje, the country’s one-time capital. Rather than having royals and aristos inside, the city’s stately homes have been turned into a national museum marking Montenegro’s history. Make sure you visit King Nikola’s Palace, the seat of the monarch for 50 years, before stopping by Pjat (Vojvode Batrića, Cetinje) to quell your appetite with a plate of ćevapi, a delicious Balkan-style kebab.

Evening: A busy day calls for a big dinner; book in at the stunning Ćatovića Mlini (Morinj 85338) to end your first 24 hours in scenic style. This former water mill is surrounded by mountains and set in lush green grounds by fresh water. Order classic taverna dishes such as octopus salad, salted sardines and asparagus salad, and watch the restaurant’s peacocks strut by.

DAY 2

Morning: Make sure you get a good night’s sleep before your second day - it starts by climbing 1,355 ancient steps. It’s for a good reason, though: at the top you’ll find the San Giovanni Fortress, dating back to the ninth century, and can soak up the green lands meeting the calm waters below the old town. Afternoon: A break in the Balkans needs some beach action, and an afternoon in Sveti Stefan is just what the doctor ordered for wintered-out Brits. The shining beacon of the Budva Riviera’s coastline, this 15th-century island is reachable by bridge and is a superb way to while away a few hours on the shore. Well, if it was good enough for Liz Taylor and Princess Margaret…

Evening: Toast a trip worth savouring by watching the sun disappear into the Adriatic while fine-dining and wining at the upscale Olive (Sveti Stefan, Budva Municipality) restaurant, overlooking this sublime stretch of beach.