France is back and MAGNIFIQUE!
The double-jabbed no longer have to quarantine on return from our closest neighbour. Time to pack the car for a family getaway across the Channel
AFTER the farce of France being on the ‘amber plus’ list due to high infection rates in La Reunion — a French territory in the Indian Ocean, 6,000 miles from Paris — the Government’s U-turn to allow trips without a return quarantine for the fully vaccinated has been met with a collective cry of ‘magnifique’!
For francophile holidaymakers and owners of second homes, this is the moment many have waited for — as has the beleaguered travel industry. France is, after all, Britain’s second most popular tourist destination after Spain: in 2019, before the pandemic, 3.6 million of us travelled there between July and September.
The new rules [see ‘The Rules for France’, page 59] take effect tomorrow at 4am.
For a last-minute escape by car, perhaps a getaway to the north of the country makes sense. Here, we have picked some of the best breaks just across La Manche.
GLAMOUR-ON-SEA
GLAM Le Touquet, not far from Calais, is famous for its expanse of beach and 1920s heydays, when Noel Coward and the ‘smart set’ came. But the towns of Somme Bay a little farther along the coast are charming, lesser-known lovelies.
Saint-Valery-sur-Somme lends itself to strolls in the floral old town and the quayside market, cycling or going for a swim at Cayeux-sur-Mer, with its pleasant beach. DON’T MISS: Book a Baie-de-Somme
‘Everything in France is a pretext for a good dinner’ FRENCH PLAYWRIGHT JEAN ANOUILH
walking tour with English-speaking Maxim, an expert on local nature (visit-somme.com). Do the return leg by steam train — binoculars essential for birdwatching. WHERE TO STAY: Cottages-de-la-Croix-l’Abbe, StValery-sur-Somme, is a cluster of three self-catering gites sleeping between four and six; from £600
a week (cottagescroixlabbe.fr).
THRILLS AND CHILLS
JUST over two hours from Calais, the area around
the Compiegne forest offers a varied break. There’s plenty to do on the doorstep: a treetop adventure park, Pierrefonds Castle, Chateau de Compiegne. Theme parks Disneyland Paris and Parc-Asterix are within an hour’s drive. Paris itself is less than an hour away by train. DON’T MISS: Visit the forest clearing to see the rail
carriage and museum where the World War I armistice was signed. WHERE TO STAY: L’Instant in Morienval is a selfcatering gite sleeping 15, from £3,260 for four nights (french-weekendbreaks.co.uk).
FRENCH FIZZ!
WHEN it comes to the famous fizz from northeastern France, it’s the swanky names such as
Taittinger in Reims and Moet in Epernay — about a three-hour drive south-east of Calais — that get all the glory.
Instead, tour deeper south into champagne country for quality and authenticity at off-thebeaten-track producers such as ChampagneMonial, in a former monastery overlooking village vineyards. For less sleepy days, there is good shopping and plenty of culture in the medieval streets of Troyes. DON’T MISS: A visit to Essoyes, the summer home of Pierre-Auguste Renoir, where there is a dedicated visitor centre (champagne-ardennetourism.co.uk). WHERE TO STAY: Camping-La-Forge-de-SainteMarie, in Thonnance-les-Moulins, is a campsite with mobile homes; pitches from £235 a week
(laforgedesaintemarie.com/en).
ARTY NORMANDY
WITH lush landscapes full of timber-framed houses and apple orchards, Normandy — on the
northern coast — is best known for its historical sights, from the Bayeux Tapestry to the D-Day landing beaches.
But the area packs a punch for art too: visit Claude Monet’s gardens in Giverny, with the famous water lilies, and more of the places where
he found inspiration at nearby Rouen. DON’T MISS: Grab a picnic at the market in Les Andelys — with local cider and pungent
camembert — then head up to Richard the Lionheart’s castle, Chateau Gaillard, for sweeping
views of the mighty River Seine. WHERE TO STAY: La-Ferme-des-Isles in AutheuilAuthouillet is a boutique B&B, from £417 for four nights (lafermedesisles.com).
LURE OF THE LOIRE
AN EASY three-hour drive from Caen, the Unesco-listed ‘garden of France’ is where two of the country’s most iconic symbols meet: fairytale chateaus . . . and rosé. Plan days combining both. A visit to eye-popping Chateau-de-Chenonceau — its reflection dazzling in the waters beneath — is a must. Then amble along the River Cher to Montrichard for a tasting at Monmousseau winery. DON’T MISS: Include Fontevraud on your itinerary. It’s Europe’s largest abbey, with contemporary twists such as modern art and virtual-reality tablets bringing visits to life. WHERE TO STAY: Domaine-deChateaufort in Langeais is a self-catering chateau
sleeping up to 18 people; from £9,930 a week (domainedechateaufort.com).
MAGIC ST-MALO
WITH grand maritime mansions and ramparts overlooking golden sands,
St-Malo is a contender for France’s best-looking ferry port: just roll off the boat, park up and head straight for the beach. Brittany has always been a favourite with Britons and no wonder. There are boutique shops galore, boat trips, mast-filled quaysides and the Grand Aquarium.
When you venture out by car, medieval Dinan and la belle epoque
Dinard are the nearby musts. DON’T MISS: Discover the wellbeing benefits of seawater therapies. Try a seaweed body-wrap or even a whole spa day at Les-ThermesMarins spa in St-Malo.
WHERE TO STAY: Hôtel-le-Grand-Bé, St-Malo, has doubles from £615 for four nights (legrandbe.com/en).
BRITTANY FOR KIDS
LEAVE the ferry in Roscoff and you’ll soon discover there’s no happier child than one with a fishing net in one hand, a crepe in the other: that’s why the Celtic-flavoured département of Finistere in Brittany’s far west is a favourite with families.
Think rocky coves, sandy beaches, granite cottages, abundant seafood and stripy sailing tops — rather like
a French Cornwall. DON’T MISS: The riviera resort of Benodet on Finistere’s south coast
has horseriding, sailing, surfing and mini-club play activities for little ones right on the beach. WHERE TO STAY: Camping Port
de Plaisance, in Benodet, has chalets/mobile homes sleeping four-plus from £634 a week (yellohvillage.co.uk).
ATLANTIC COAST
THE coastline south of Nantes and north of La Rochelle is in the département of Vendée, known for attractive fishing harbour St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, big beach resorts such as St-Jean-de-Monts, and marshlands dotted with fishermen’s cabins on stilts. It is also home to holiday island Noirmoutier, where the whitewashed houses with their blue shutters could make you think you were in Greece. DON’T MISS: Include a day inland at France’s historical theme park Puy du Fou, known for its spectacular shows. WHERE TO STAY: Domaine-le-Sher
wood in Notre-Dame-de-Monts has beachside villas sleeping four-plus from £1,179 a week (kombak.eu).
OH, ILE DE RE!
DoN’T be put off this excursion by the cost of the toll-bridge from La Rochelle on the mainland; see it rather as the measly entrance price for one of France’s most idyllic (and sunny) islands. Expect turquoise sea, long golden sand beaches and charming seaside towns such as fortified St-Martin-de-Re, where you can watch the elegant French go by and saunter around chic shopping streets.
Almost everyone cycles everywhere, thanks to a network of flat paths passing oyster stalls, salt marshes and fabulous beaches including Le-Bois-Plage, all of which are completely safe for children of all ages. DON’T MISS: Enjoy a sundowner and low-key outdoor concert sitting on the harbour edge in the gorgeous little port of La-Flotte. WHERE TO STAY: Palais-desGouverneurs residence in StMartin-de-Re has apartments/studios sleeping four from £1,083 a week (pierreet vacances.com/gb-en).
DORDOGNE DAYS
oK, So this one’s a bit of a drive south... but here’s a département in France’s southwest where you can find your off-button. Spend days fishing, canoeing and taking dips at safe river beaches. Seek out market days in characterful old towns such as Sarlat-la-Canéda, Bergerac and Perigueux for truffles, goat’s cheese, heaps of sweet strawberries and walnuts. DON’T MISS: The prehistoric cave-art at Lascaux IV in Montignac. WHERE TO STAY: Huttopia Sarlat has glamping options, sleeping four to six from £489 a week (europe.huttopia. com/en).