Daily Mail

Have we hit TRUFFLE OVERLOAD?

It’s in everything from Marmite to pesto. So what’s worth snaffling . . .

- By Sudi Pigott

RISING prices may be the flavour of the month, but we all need little treats to feel indulged and bring a taste of luxury to everyday dishes.

Step forward the truffle, once the preserve of the super-wealthy, now available to us all, thanks to a deluge of truffle-enriched products hitting the shelves this summer.

not all truffle products are created equal, however. Some list among their ingredient­s ‘truffle flavour’, which is a polite, if misleading, way of saying it’s a lab-created concoction rather than the real thing. Having said that, even faux truffle can add a powerful and pungent punch of umami.

Intrigued? We’ve sniffed out the best of the bunch . . .

MARMITE THAT’S EVEN MORE MOREISH Truffle Marmite (£4.50, exclusivel­y at Sainsbury’s)

LAUNCHED at the beginning of the month, this new addition to Marmite’s range, like the original, is sure to divide opinion.

On opening the jar, you can smell truffle straight away. It’s robustly flavoured, with no pretence of being anything other than an excellent truffle flavour made in a lab.

I predict it will be curiously and hopelessly addictive for Marmite lovers, with endless possibilit­ies beyond breakfast. The jar looks posh on the table, too. GOOD FOR: Toast, hot buttered crumpets, cheese scones, stirred into scrambled eggs, or slathered on roasted potatoes. nigella’s infamous Marmite spaghetti is made even more decadent with a splodge of this. VERDICT: I found myself dipping breadstick­s straight into the jar. I couldn’t leave it alone. 5/5

POSH UP YOUR TOMATO KETCHUP

Truffle Ketchup (£8.76, trufflehun­ter.co.uk) A BESTSELLER in this brand’s truffle-infused condiment range, this ketchup gives a well-balanced flavour hit. GOOD FOR: Taking your bacon sarnie up a notch. Or add to mayo for a very special prawn cocktail. VERDICT: Ideal for impressing competitiv­e barbecue neighbours, especially when proffered with the brand’s black truffle barbecue sauce (£10.16). 4/5

DIJON PRADA FOR THE LARDER

White Truffle Dijon Mustard (£5.95, parsonsnos­e.co.uk) THIS is a cut above other truffle mustards because it’s made with genuine Dijon and rarer, pricier, white truffle. A difference your more discerning guests will appreciate. GOOD FOR: Delightful­ly enhances grilled steaks or lamb and is particular­ly divine on a ham sandwich. It would make a fine French dressing, too. VERDICT: A rather sophistica­ted and relatively inexpensiv­e indulgence. enjoy. 5/5

PRIMO PESTO TO UPGRADE PASTA

Artichoke & Truffle Pesto (£3.20, sainsburys.co.uk) BELAZU, the Mediterran­ean and Middle eastern ingredient­s specialist, has added a truffle pesto adroitly mixed with artichoke to its range. The vegetable’s earthy flavour complement­s truffle admirably to pack a hefty punch. GOOD FOR: An instant transforma­tion of everyday pasta or mac and cheese. Belazu suggests mixing it with breadcrumb­s as a stuffing for field mushrooms or chicken, spreading on toast and topping with prosciutto and walnuts, stirring into mashed potato or adding to grilled asparagus with a poached egg.

Mix a dollop into creme fraiche to make a dip for last-minute entertaini­ng, too. VERDICT: A versatile and tasty product. Makes a great addition to the kitchen cupboard. 4.5/5

A SWEET DELIGHT PAIRED WITH CHEESE Truffle Honey (£14.95, fortnumand­mason.com)

THIS deeply mellow Balkan honey with a slice of black truffle has a lingering richness. It comes in a squeezy bottle. GOOD FOR: elevating a cheese board — it pairs particular­ly well with ricotta, gorgonzola and lifts a baked goat’s cheese salad. Its savoury richness means it’s also sublime as a glaze on meats or drizzled on a salad of fennel, orange and almonds. VERDICT: This stands up so much better to the intense aroma of truffle than the more delicate acacia honey used by other brands. The fact you can see the sliver of dried black truffle inside is also very appealing. Would make a great foodie gift. 5/5

...BUT OVERPOWERI­NG IN SMOKED SALMON

Truffle Smoked Salmon (£6, 100g, waitrose.com) THE Italians are fond of truffle prosciutto and the French put truffle in cheese. not to be outdone, we Brits are now adding it to Scottish smoked salmon. GOOD FOR: A show-off smoked salmon bagel at a picnic, or adding to scrambled egg. VERDICT: This just didn’t work — I found the truffle flavour completely masked the taste of smoked salmon. 2/5

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