Boulogne-sur-Mer for under £100

‘If It were but 300 miles farther off, how the English would rave about it,’ Charles Dickens said of his beloved Boulogne. today, unassuming Boulogne is a tale of two towns. there’s the fortified Upper City — with its complete stone wall — which is sure to delight fans of antique Gallic charm, while downhill you’ll find a bustling shopping area and france’s largest fishing port. No surprise, then, that quality seafood is a priority in the myriad restaurants.

Where to stay

■ L’Enclos de L’eveche

IT’s almost impossible to believe the amount of character you get for your money at this former vicarage in the old town: antique harrods furniture, ornate cast- iron radiators, framed hermes scarves on the wall — not to mention views of the basilica’s big and beautiful dome next door. And did we mention the sizeable doubleheight rooms?

Doubles from £77, enclosdeleveche.com

■ Au Coin du Spa

THIS family-run B&B is set in a charming old town house over the road from the local conservatoire. Listen out for the wonderful strains of cello practice through its large windows.

Indoors, there’s a focus on pampering, with Jacuzzi baths in the larger of its five rooms and a hot tub in the large garden.

Doubles from £100, aucoinduspa.fr

■ Evancy

One of Boulogne’s most recent cent openings, this sparkling- parkling- clean apartment- ent-cum-hotel concept has the facilities required for a comfortable selfcatered stay ( and the wifi is good). Floor- to- ceiling windows in the lounge area offer great views (and seagull sounds!) across Boulogne’s port, which is peppered with hundreds of little fishing boats. It’s a short walk to nausicaa, France’s national aquarium. Doubles from £64, evancy.com

Where to eat ■ Le Cyrano

THIS little eatery down by the port is Boulogne all over: small, unassuming and family-run, but with a loving attention to detail. expect a traditional menu of homemade French fare that changes with the whims of its gourmand owners.

herring is the town’s most popular fish, but it’s the skate dish that wins the most plaudits and comes in at £10.50.

9 Rue Coquelin, 62200

■ Restaurant Brasserie Chez Jules

THIS market square restaurant is a clear reminder that in France eating well while eating out remains a common right. Just £15 will fetch you a well-turned plate of something wholesome and satisfying, a glass of wine, a dessert made by the in-house patissier and, of course, a coffee. That it has attentive staff is a delightful bonus. Chez-jules.fr

■ Chez Brigitte

HERE, the eponymous Brigitte and her husband serve no-frills pleasure in the form of fresh fries from their been-here-forever trailer. Typical of northern France (and the Low Countries next door), this delicious fast food is best served with a piping- hot fricadelle sausage and piquant samurai sauce (£ 5.20). To be eaten seated, with one’s feet dangling off the edge of the harbour. Quai des Paquebot, 62200

Getting there

P&O FerrIes run between Dover and Calais up to 15 times a day from £ 35 one- way (poferries.com). From Calais, take the train to Boulogne from £ 6.64 oneway ( sncf.com).