THE McCALL SMITH TOP TEN
1 EDINBURGH has several great institutions. My favourite is the Scottish National Portrait Gallery on Queen Street. It’s a complete take on Scottish history. Go in knowing nothing; come out well-informed.
2 WHEN you’ve left the portrait gallery, take a left on Queen Street to revive your spirits at The Chaumer, a little bistro run by Vixy Rae, perfect for lunch or coffee.
3 ON TOP of Calton Hill is Scotland’s Disgrace: Edinburgh’s failed attempt at the Greek Parthenon. They ran out of money. It is a monument to unfinished projects.
4 BY ARTHUR’S Seat, there’s a terrific 500m long tunnel that’s part of the old Innocent Railway. Follow the track to Portobello beach. My daughters and grandsons take a dip. I have yet to be tempted.
5 NEXT to the King’s Theatre is my old student watering-hole, Bennets Bar. Unlike a lot of today’s totally bogus bars, Bennets is the real deal.
6 THE National Museum of Scotland is where I had lunch every day as a student. It was cheap and consisted of beans and very greasy pies. The museum has an extravagant piece of lunacy, a clock that on the hour plays the third movement of Bach’s organ concerto in A minor.
7 THE Scott monument, in the heart of the city, is black with the smoke of Auld Reekie. It is the world’s largest monument to an author.
8 GREYFRIARS Kirk and churchyard is said to have been used by J.K. Rowling when she needed inspiration for new names for her Harry Potter novels. Outside the gates is a statue of famously devoted terrier Greyfriars Bobby (pictured), who sat by his owner’s grave for 14 years, until his own death in 1872.
9 THE Queen’s Gallery in Holyrood exhibits some of the finest parts of the Royal Collection. Right opposite this beautiful building is the Parliament. I’m still getting used to it. It’s odd — but it could have been worse.
10 VALVONA & Crolla on Elm Row is a wonderful delicatessen which features in several of my 44 Scotland Street books. It’s the favourite restaurant of Bertie Pollock, the central character, and mine also. I usually have their legendary bacon roll — though I have special dispensation to h a ve it outside breakfast hours.