Make mine a LOBSTER Wellington!

SO, WHAT’S the ultimate, pull-out all-the-stops, decadent dinner party dish? A succulent wellington, of course. even Gordon ramsay has said he would choose it for his last meal.

But forget the traditional beef fillet wrapped in pastry. wellingtons have become seriously creative — and posher than ever. From lobster with saffron to pheasant and pork belly, there’s an option for every New Year’s dinner party.

Normally, the splendour of a wellington is matched only by the anxiety of serving it — as there’s no way of knowing if the filling has stayed moist or whether your pastry has a soggy bottom — but the new wellingtons are pre-made and delivered. So pick one of these and you’ll be toasted as a triumph on New Year’s eve...

LUXURIOUS LOBSTER

Cornish Lobster Wellington with Saffron and Parmesan Sauce, serves two (£58, fishforthought.co.uk)

WHAT IS IT? Cornish lobster tail, swathed in chestnut mushrooms, with cod and parsley mousse, all wrapped in a herb and chive pancake and finished with all-butter puff pastry. Served with a creamy saffron and parmesan sauce.

VERDICT: This is ravishing — worthy of a high-end restaurant. The sustainably sourced lobster is wonderfully succulent, the mousse subtle and sophisticated, and the classic technique of wrapping in a herb crepe means the lobster is so moist. 10/10

FLAVOURFUL PHEASANT

Wild & Game Pheasant Wellington, serves one (£6.95, wildandgame.co.uk)

WHAT IS IT? Pheasant coated with an apple and calvados pate and pork belly encased in puff pastry.

VERDICT: An appealing recipe with fairly flavourful if pale pheasant breast. The apple and calvados pate partnered the pheasant well and tasted suitably boozy. Though I’m dismayed by the use of margarine rather than butter in the puff pastry. 5/10

WATERY WELLINGTON

The Fish Society Smoked Haddock Wellington (£11.20 per pack of two, thefishsociety.co.uk)

WHAT IS IT? Smoked haddock fillet enveloped in a cheese and spinach sauce, in an open-topped puff pastry case. Arrives frozen.

VERDICT: The smoked haddock fillet is excellent, with a mildly sweet taste and firm yet tender texture. However the spinach filling was watery, resulting in the pastry being too soft. But the cheese sauce is tasty and savoury without overpowering the fish. 7/10

QUALITY VENISON

Wild & Game Tender Venison and Pork Belly, serves two (£15.59, wildandgame.co.uk)

WHAT IS IT? venison haunch with a venison and chicken liver pate and mushroom duxelles mix, encased in puff pastry.

VERDICT: The venison is tender, gamey and I like the inclusion of the pate, plus a little pork belly for added depth of flavour. The puff pastry could be better — it’s not as flaky or crisp as I’d like — and the finished appearance could be a better golden colour. 7/10

VALUE FOR VEGANS

Plant Revolution Ultimate Wellington, serves four (£3.50, groceries.morrisons.com)

WHAT IS IT? wheat and soy protein with a mushroom and shallot duxelles in crisp golden pastry.

VERDICT: I confess to a bias: I am not usually a fan of plant-based meat alternatives. However, this tastes good. I like the red wine and herbs and the filling is light yet satisfying. But it is a bit bland and I would enjoy a more savoury taste. Great value but not a showstopper. 4/10

SUMPTUOUSLY RICH

Farmison Individual Wild Venison Wellington, serves two, although it says it is an individual serving (£25, farmison.com)

WHAT IS IT? venison loin with mushroom, shallot and Madeira duxelles, chicken liver pate and air-dried ham.

VERDICT: This splendid-looking wellington has an intricate lattice pattern on buttery, crisp pastry. Inside, the venison is ultra tender and full of gamey richness. The extra wrapping of air- dried ham enhances its sumptuous richness. 10/10