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miles inland. So here are some suggestions for a two- day itinerary.
DAY ONE
Take a cabin on the overnight Brittany Ferries crossing from Portsmouth to Caen. That way, you arrive at dawn near the spot where so many British troops came ashore on D-Day — Sword Beach. Grab breakfast in a cafe in Ouistreham.
Hillman Fortress, Colleville-Montgomery
BeFOre the museums open, take a short trip to see what lay in store for the troops before their feet were dry. On open land, this German bunker complex has not changed since 1944 when the Suffolk regiment fought a fierce battle to seize control of an enemy vantage point between Sword Beach and the city of Caen. It was one of the toughest challenges on D-Day itself. There is no entry charge. In the summer months, local volunteers are on hand to unlock the hefty steel doors and offer guided tours.
SEE the ‘Hillman Fortified Site’ page at caenlamer-tourisme.com.
Memorial Pegasus, Ranville
a Ten-mInuTe drive brings you to one of the must- see landmarks. D-Day was not just about ‘the beaches’. Before the first landing craft had come ashore, thousands of airborne troops were dropped inland to seize key positions.
The Ox and Bucks Light Infantry, led by major John Howard, landed in gliders to capture two key bridges. The first, a lifting bridge over the Caen ship canal, became the first piece of France to be liberated, henceforth renamed Pegasus
Bridge after the flying horse insignia of the 6th airborne Division.
after it was replaced in 1994, the steel bridge was dumped in a field until it was rescued to form the majestic centrepiece of this wonderful museum (£7.60 for adults and £4.70 for children). Honouring all Britain’s airborne forces, it has plenty of hardware (for adults and children alike).
There is a full-size replica of the famous Horsa glider plus vehicles, guns and — new this summer — a Bren gun carrier immaculately restored by a grateful Frenchman. also spotless is an original Bailey bridge, newly repainted by a team of retired royal engineers who turned up with pots and brushes. a short walk across the
canal takes you to the Café Gondree, still owned by arlette, the little girl who welcomed major Howard and his men that night in 1944.
musee.memorial-pegasus.com
D-Day Wings Museum, Carpiquet
JuST off the ring-road around Caen, you will find an impressive collection of D-Day aircraft in a huge hangar next to the city’s Carpiquet airport (£7.60/£6). a hands-on venue, it allows visitors inside cockpits. Take a spin at the helm of a Bofors antiaircraft gun, too.
ddaywingsmuseum.com
Juno Beach Centre, Courseulles-sur-Mer
HeaD back to the coast at Courseulles, codenamed Juno Beach. This was the main sector for the gallant Canadians who, by the end of D-Day, had fought their way further inland than any other allied division. all volunteers, there were 5,500 of them who never came home.
Built into the sand, the gleaming Juno Beach Centre (£7.25 entry) tells their story with stirring audio-visual exhibits.
Take the guided tour of the wellpreserved German bunker in the dunes and imagine what it must have been like waking up to see the full might of the allied war machine coming up the beach.
junobeach.org
The British Normandy Memorial, Ver sur Mer
IF YOu only visit one place, then come to this beautiful 44-acre site overlooking the central sector which the British codenamed Gold Beach. It was only opened in 2021 following a long campaign by the veterans, with the support of the Daily mail, and is now a permanent tribute to all 22,440 British servicemen — and two women — who gave their lives during the normandy campaign.
It is a great spot from which to get your bearings since it is right in the middle of the allied landing zones. Just off the coast, you see the remains of the mighty mulberry harbour, the ingenious portable docks that kept the invasion forces resupplied.
Immediately below a herd of normandy cows, you see the spot where Stan Hollis of the Green Howards landed, before winning the only Victoria Cross awarded on D-Day itself. Drive five minutes up the road to Crepon and see where it happened.
What makes a visit so special this year is the installation of ‘Standing With Giants’, the 1,475 life-size silhouettes. as of June 6, there will also be the brand new Winston Churchill visitor centre and café for a well- earned cup of tea. For a few pounds, you can sponsor a plaque in the name of a loved one.
britishnormandymemorial.org
OVERNIGHT
THe ancient cathedral city of Bayeux (which was spared bombardment) is a perfect stopover between the British and u.S. sectors.