A bright spark that’s quite a jolt to the palate

IN the coffee game they describe a brew with a high acidity as “bright”. I came across the term when the Root and Branch lads set up shop on the Ormeau Road. They did an espresso that was positively electric, thanks to a zingy acidity that was just the ticket on a groggy morning.

I was reminded of that high voltage jolt the other evening thanks to an unusual blend I came across when I made a pilgrimage to JN Wines. I’d not been in a while, well quite a while, but made a visit there a condition of heading to Saintfield and Crossgar for an afternoon so herself could visit some homewares shop in search for things only homeware shops in the country sell.

I did find myself hovering next to a bottle of Morisfarms Morellino de Scansano, an absolutely lovely wine I’ve enjoyed once or twice before. Morellino is what the locals in this part of Tuscany call Sangiovese.

At £15,95, though, I kept my arm by my side and went to move off in search of something for a few shekels less. But then I noticed the same producer’s branding on a bottle of what’s called Mandriolo. At £11.50 and from such a quality producer, I thought surely this is worth a punt. My decision to give it a whirl was further cemented by the fact this Sangiovese dominated wine was supplemented with a little Cabernet Sauvignon (very ‘Super Tuscan’) and, wait for it, Petit Verdot. Petit Verdot is a grape better known for adding a drop of colour and a bit of muscle to Bordeaux blends the odd time.

It has, until recently, generally played second fiddle to Cabernet Franc as the grape they add once the Cab Sauv/ Merlot ratio has been decided. But, it seems it’s becoming a more popular choice in Bordeaux. And now, it seems, some innovative producers are planting it in Tuscany.

It’s late ripening, though perhaps the climate in Tuscany brings it on a touch more to produce the rich, dense, tannic wines this grape is capable of.

I’ll not pretend I could single out its influence in this Mandriolo, but it was a bright, zippy, tart, sour, dark cherry delight.

There was structure there too, though, with a dark, grippy bite to it. Was it the Petit Verdot? Quite possibly. A cracker with or without food.