VINE OLD TIME
Shane Davison samples a taste of Tuscany in a medieval village steeped in famous wines
Nestling amid the rolling vineyards and olive groves of Italy’s Chianti region, the small medieval village of Fonterutoli, like the wines it produces, offers a wonderful taste of Tuscany.
It’s on the SR 222 road, known as the Chiantigiana, which runs northsouth from Florence to Siena through the heart of this classic tourist destination.
Wine has flowed through the veins of the Fonterutoli since 1435, with the 274 acres of vineyards and estates that surround it being owned and overseen by 24 generations of the Mazzei family.
The Mazzeis, who still live in the village, have dedicated themselves to quality winemaking for 600 years – and their connections even cross the Atlantic.
In 1779, ancestor Philip Mazzei was asked by Thomas Jefferson – the principal author of America’s Declaration of Independence and its third President – to plant a vineyard at his estate in Monticello, Virginia.
The family’s revered approach to wine-making in Chianti has produced classics such as Castello Fonterutoli, Siepi and Ser Lapo – and at a tasting you get the full Tuscan experience, whether you’re a wine buff or not.
It’s a special place where vineyard workers refer to the vines as their “children’’ and where a deep respect for the countryside is evident.
Even the newly built state-of-theart winery is synched perfectly with nature by being discreetly built into the side of a hill, using an underground waterfall to cool the many thousands of barrels stored there. Tastings take place daily, there are guided tours of the winery – booking ahead is recommended – and, of course, you can buy wines from the shop (mazzei.it).
Fonterutoli also offers an ideal base for discovering the Tuscan hills by foot or by bike (the 21st edition of the celebrated annual L’Eroica classic vintage cycling event is on October 1).
Siena is just a 20-minute bus ride away from the village and this small, very walkable city rivals even Florence with its Renaissance palazzo, honey-stoned streets and art treasures.
If you’re visiting in the summer, try to catch the Palio di Siena, a horse race that is held twice each year (the first is tomorrow, then again on August 16) where 10 bareback riders in colourful traditional uniforms race around the Piazza del Campo.
My base was the Castello di Fonterutoli B&B, which offers 12 chic rooms in the heart of the village.
The accommodation is spacious and elegant, with a style and charm that perfectly reflects the beauty of the Tuscan countryside.
Its restaurant, or osteria, is only a minute’s walk away and offers quality, locally sourced dishes such as rabbit and wild boar, proudly served by the chef, Lorenzo.
Fonterutoli truly is a Tuscan gem where turning off your mobile is as easy as taking another gulp of one of their many delicious wines.
So if you’re a wine lover, or just want to experience the charm of traditional Tuscan life, look no further.