Windermere we go
Pre-Covid break to the Lake District went down a storm, says Paul Cole
stayed in our well-appointed room all weekend, watching Ciara visit her worst upon Windermere. But, like the Lake District itself, we’re made of sterner stuff and, besides, there’s plenty to do on the hotel’s doorstep.
Just walking in the wind and rain can be a joy if you’re prepared for it, and an amble through town, past all the anorak and umbrella shops, throws up surprises.
A mere 100 yards or so from the hotel, The World of Beatrix Potter celebrates the author’s adventures of Peter Rabbit and his pals.
And while the stories are gently old-school (albeit with the occasional glimpse of malice in wonderland), the family attraction is anything but. Clever use of light and sound makes a warren of rooms much more than it actually is.
Partway along the trail – allow about 45 minutes for your visit – you can step outside into the Peter Rabbit Garden, a small but lovingly planted kitchen garden straight from the books.
It’s not all for show – produce is used to create dishes in the family-friendly character cafe.
Also in the garden, you’ll find an impressive 15ft statue depicting three children releasing Potter stalwart Jemima Puddle-Duck.
Look carefully and you’ll spot characters from every single one of Potter’s 23 tales.
Almost next door you’ l l find another cuddly character, this one a tribute to Lake District ingenuity and determination.
It’s Herdy the sheep, a firm favourite for visitors from around the globe who flock to his home. Inside a Scandi-style shop are Herdies galore – on mugs, plates, tea sets, umbrellas and much more.
The Herdy Company was born in 2007 in Kendal, created by designers Spencer and Diane Hannah to offer visitors to the Lake District and locals a choice of responsibly produced, high-quality giftware.
There’s also a charity, Herdyfund, which not only offers financial support but brings together the community to back upland fell farming.
Herdy himself is named after the region’s famous Herdwick sheep and, to bring things full circle, Potter herself was a champion Herdwick breeder.
Spencer and Diane keep things fresh, by the way – since Covid, Herdy smile face masks have been added to the range.
There’s wildlife of a different kind some 20 minutes away by car, or by ferry, at the Lakes Aquarium.
It boasts Britain’s largest collection of freshwater fish among many exhibits, some of which can be viewed in their natural surrounds from a transparent tunnel.
But we were saving that for another day, because we had an appointment with afternoon tea back at the Old England, which has made the tasty treat something of a speciality with sweet and sour options on offer.
Take a window seat in the terrace bar, sit back and watch the world go by.
It’s £32 for two, or you can add fizz for another tenner. Come rain or shine, it’s a relaxing, self-indulgent hour like few others in the Lakes. The hotel restaurant offers a menu majoring on local produce without breaking the bank. It’s good, honest fare without being overly fussy. Just don’t tell Herdy about the lamb… There’s a modest gym, a pool and a spa offering treatments if you want to really pull out the pamper stops, but check for Covid restrictions. As we prepared to check out, the weatherman was getting excited again. It turned out that all the roads bar one out of Bowness were blocked by flooding or fallen trees. Sadly, the open road was our route home. Thanks, Ciara, for a memorable weekend. If only you’d managed to close the road south too, we would have stayed put for some more Lake District hospitality.
Afternoon tea is a relaxing, self-indulgent hour like few others in the Lakes