Scrubbing up nicely

Over the past decade I’ve seen exfoliation transform from budget skin staple to serious DIY dermatology, with high-tech acids, polishes and brushes promising to reveal a fresh, new you.

It speaks volumes that Huda Beauty has chosen to launch into skincare with just one product. That’s right, a scrub. Huda’s Wishful Yo Glow features a satisfying texture that bobbles as you rub, creating the illusion of years of debris falling away beneath your fingertips.

And that’s the thing about exfoliation. It’s addictive. I remember the thrill of my first peel pad which, in a single wipe, left my face feeling 10 years softer. Unfortunately, I got so hooked on that smoothness, I didn’t realise I was overdoing it until my skin started reacting to previously innocuous products.

I’m not alone.“I see a lot of problems caused by over-exfoliation,” says dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite.

“It can weaken the skin’s natural protective barrier and trigger irritation, inflammation and skin sensitivities.”

If it’s so scary, why should we bother? In short, exfoliation makes our skin look younger.

“As we age, the turnover of our skin cells slows down and the dead layer becomes thicker, making skin appear dull,” says skincare expert Dr Sophie Shotter. “That layer can make lines and wrinkles appear deeper. So good exfoliation helps restore radiance and smoothness.”

Do it well and exfoliation works like a tag team with your other skin products.“It improves penetration so you get better results from them,” says Dr Granite.

HOW CAN YOU SCRUB YOUR SKIN SAFELY?

First, know your exfoliants, says Dr Shotter. “Mechanical exfoliation is your traditional scrub, where you feel it rubbing at the skin. Chemical exfoliation uses gentle acids to ‘unglue’the dead skin cells and allow them to slough away.”

Both Dr Shotter and Dr Granite favour chemical exfoliants over physical scrubs.

“For most people, daily mechanical exfoliation would be too much,” says Dr Shotter.

If particles are too rough, they could cause problems such as irritation, micro-tears in the skin and thread veins, she warns. Good chemical exfoliants help skin behave younger, Dr Granite adds. “Some can penetrate into the dermis where they stimulate collagen production.” But remember, it’s still a fine balance. Slough away too much and you’re opening the door to your skin letting in things that shouldn’t be invited and risking a ruckus.

HOW SHOULD YOU START?

Read the label! Some exfoliants are designed for daily use, while more potent ones are meant for just once or twice a week.“Start twice a week, and build up gradually if your skin is tolerating it,” says Dr Shotter. Too sensitive for glycolic acid? Try acidfree chemical exfoliants or ones using polyhydroxy acids instead.

If you’re using a daily exfoliant, that’s probably enough, says Dr Granite.“However, if your skin is oily or hardy, you might add in a more intensive peel or a manual exfoliating brush twice a month.”

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU’RE DOING IT RIGHT?

Exfoliation should leave your skin glowing and smooth.“If it feels tight or irritated, stop. If it’s reacting, use nothing but a plain moisturiser until it calms down,” says Dr Granite.

If you’re new to exfoliation or upping your scrubbing, be cautious about using retinol or vitamin C at the same time. As with all actives, they will penetrate more deeply into freshly exfoliated skin and are the two most likely to cause a reaction. Finally, always use an SPF to protect new skin cells from sensitivity.