Temple of dreams
Jacob Phillips toasts Dublin with Guinness
Dublin should come with a health warning. At every turn, there is something perilously wonderful to eat or drink. But like most things we’re told to approach with caution, it is undeniably worth the risk.
Of course, my journey to the Irish capital began with a taste of the black stuff, or as I discovered, the dark, red stuff.
The Guinness Storehouse, an architectural gem which has stood in the heart of the city for almost three centuries, is like Legoland or Cadbury World after it’s done its GCSEs and left school.
An alluring adult playground like no other, with plenty to explore – even if you’re not a Guinness fan.
The appeal is instant. When you enter the building there are Irish dancing and brass band performances put on by students, creating a friendly, uplifting vibe.
Once you’ve been serenaded you’ll be led through a maze of waterfalls, vats of barley and huge 1960s Guinness ads, before finally getting a sample of the smooth-tasting liquid refreshment in a steam-filled, white room that Willy Wonka and Heston Blumenthal would be proud of.
Here you’ll be bamboozled by a wide selection of Guinness facts, which are bound to impress your mates down the pub. For example, the drink is not actually black but rather a dark ruby red due to the way the ingredients are roasted.
Plus, according to Guinness folklore, the next best Guinness in the world is in Nigeria, so be sure to make the most of it on your Irish visit.
Remember to take a deep breath in through your nose before tasting the goods. And if you’re feeling particularly self-obsessed, why not get your face 3D-printed on to a pint too? It’s worth it just for the photo op.
The trip through the Guinness Mecca is a good excuse to visit the Storehouse’s Gravity Bar. The glass watering hole is one of the highest points in the city and has panoramic views of Dublin and beyond.
As you sip your pint, and inevitably get that Guinness moustache, you can take in the sights of Phoenix Park, the Wicklow Mountains where Guinness sources its water for brewing, and the Aviva Stadium.
It’s the perfect spot to decide where to visit, or to mull over how there are 30 million bubbles in each pint.
I stayed at the five-star Westbury Hotel, right in the heart of the action. Sitting at the edge of the cultural quarter on
Balfe Street, it’s yards from Grafton Street, famous for its shopping, and is a short walk from Dublin Castle, the National Gallery and the River Liffey.
All of these must-do landmarks are within walking distance of each other and you can pop over to Temple Bar, with its cobbled streets and lively bars full of live music, to feel like you’re in a Gaelic folk tale.
However, locals recommend slipping away to O’Donoghues. The hostelry, on Merrion Row, which started life as a grocery store in 1979, is packed nightly and Dublin locals spill out into the road to smoke and catch up with friends. A pair of folk singers will be waiting for you in the front corner. Make sure to listen – anyone nearby talking over the music will be told to shut up by the musicians and regulars.
If you are visiting for the city’s literary heritage, book a trip to Abbey Theatre, where legends such as writer Edna O’Brien are still putting on shows. I went to see Joyce’s Women, which gives a voice to the women who were central to the life of James Joyce, and it was worth every minute.
The Westbury Hotel has had many celebrity guests, including One Direction star Niall Horan and singer Lewis Capaldi, but its laid-back atmosphere makes it welcoming to everyone.
The hotel restaurant, Balfes Bar & Brasserie, serves fantastic seafood straight from the bay. Visitors can enjoy fresh mussels, prawns and their seafood skillet, all of which go perfectly with the Guinness bread. For a gorgeous dinner experience, try Wilde, the hotel’s fine-dining spot.
Styled in beautiful 1930s’ decor, the restaurant is ranked third best in Ireland.
Or why not pop in after a day of shopping and have the Westbury’s own tea connoisseur pick out the perfect warm drink and cake for you?
If you prefer to eat out in the city, try to find Allta’s latest project. The pop-up restaurant first opened to rave reviews in 2019. When I visited it was operating out of Trinity Street car park. A lift took me to the top floor, where I was greeted by a warm cocktail bar and art gallery.
The car park was surprisingly cosy, and the unusual taster menu featured octopus and parsnip ice-cream.
So go for stirring shows, fabulous food, or just to kick back in some of the best bars in the world – Dublin does it all in the most delectable style.
‘‘ The next best Guinness is in Nigeria, so make the most of it on your Irish trip