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I PLUNGE my oar into the water, propelling the clear-bottomed kayak smoothly down the river.

“Keep an eye out for snakes!” comes the cry from guide Tiki, of Get Up and Go Kayaking, who is so at home here she is standing up on her little boat.

We’re sailing in Rock Springs, central Florida, and I was already very much on snake-watch before her helpful suggestion.

Below me I can spot fish, otters and turtles. Alligators also sometimes swim this way.

Just 20 miles away is Orlando, but I’m here to discover the world away from its theme parks and bright lights. I won’t be bothering Mickey Mouse or Harry Potter on this trip.

I stop fretting about the wildlife, take in the views and – inevitably – bump lightly into the bank.

My next activity is something I haven’t done for about 15 years – riding a pushbike.

After choosing one from local firm Bikes and Blades, I fear the old maxim that you never forget how to ride isn’t true. I’m a bit all over the place.

Vibrant

But eventually I set off, reflecting that this is the perfect way to see beautiful Winter Park – and all for a wallet-friendly $7 an hour.

My route, the wonderful West Orange Trail, is almost flat and perfect for someone who hasn’t gone for a bike ride in years. After five miles I stop for lunch at the Plant Street Market, a vibrant hub where 20 vendors sell their wares.

I try a couple of beers from the Crooked Can Brewing Company which go down a treat with my snack from Michael’s Ali Coal Fired Pizza.

On the way back I’m caught in a tropical storm and soaked through in seconds.

A rider going the other way shouts: “Welcome to the Sunshine State!” I laugh, but the day is so warm it’s actually refreshing.

Another must-do in Winter Park is a trip on the Scenic Boat Tour.

It sets sail every hour from beautiful Lake Osceola. Our skipper, Gary, shouts: “Hang on!” But before we can scoff the little boat shoots

off at a rate of knots towards the centre of the huge lake. All around are mansions of all colours. We then head down a little river which connects to another huge lake.

“You can’t tell from down here,” says Gary, “but if you were to look at this from above, it’s Mickey Mouse’s head.”

During the trip I get a bit wet from the boat’s spray so pop back to my hotel, the Sheraton Vistana Resort Villas in Lake Buena, to dry off.

All the rooms are fully furnished apartments, with ovens, dishwashers and, best of all, hot tubs. There’s also a choice of restaurants and bars, as well as seven outdoor pools, tennis courts and three gyms. After

a soak I head back out to Andretti Indoor Karting and Games.

My inner petrolhead can’t wait to get on the track, but before that there are plenty of state-of-the-art games to play on in its arcade.

One of these is the Gear Coaster, a virtual rollercoaster. Strapped in and with the VR headset over my eyes, I’m suddenly preparing for the ride of a lifetime.

As it moves, so does my seat. Then I’m thrown around and even feel as if I’m doing a loop-the-loop. It’s scarily realistic.

Next I try my hand at go-karting. Orlando boasts the world’s longest indoor track with elevation changes and corners to test the best of drivers. I start last, but when the chequered flag drops I’m second.

I’m spoilt for choice for nights out. I’ve already dined out at Mango’s Tropical Cafe. Tonight I go downtown to Maxine’s on Shine and order the lasagne with an Old Fashioned cocktail, before being joined by Maxine herself – an absolute force of nature.

Afterwards I head into town and walk into a vintage furniture store. I step inside a lift which takes me upstairs to Mathers, a cocktail bar with so much charm I could spend the whole trip there.

The next morning I’m nursing a slight headache, but after a quick shop at Orlando Premium Outlets, I go to Orlando Starflyer, the world’s tallest swing ride.

I meet manager John, a Scouser drawn by the city’s bright lights and warm weather.

I’m strapped in and suddenly flying at 40mph at a height of 450ft.

Below me I can see for miles and reflect there’s so much more to this city than Mickey Mouse and his mates.