John Stimpfig
‘Each remained loyal to their respective domaines and regions’
The recenT deaThs, in distressingly rapid succession, of henri Bonneau, Paul Pontallier, Louis Latour and etienne hugel have been heavy blows to bear far beyond the four regions they represented with such élan and distinction.
Their collective contribution to the rhône, Bordeaux, Burgundy and alsace was nothing short of monumental – between them accounting for well over 100 vintages.
Individually, each remained loyal to their respective domaines and regions, deliberately never straying far from the terroirs they loved and cherished. Pontallier might have made wine in chile and consulted elsewhere. Latour also ventured into the ardèche and the Var. But everyone knew where their hearts belonged.
When I last interviewed Pontallier just after his 30th Bordeaux harvest in 2014, he explained why he and Margaux’s owner, corinne Mentzelopoulos, had never made wine in another region. ‘Partly, because everyone would have expected the wine to be as good as Margaux. and we just didn’t think that was possible.’
Instead, Pontallier, just like hugel, Bonneau and Latour, preferred to hone his craft on his home turf. ‘at Margaux, we have been blessed with the privilege of a perfect terroir and centuries of cumulative experience. What more could we want, other than to serve and pay homage to this unique place?’ This was typical Pontallier. But it could just as easily have been said by any of the other three.
They had other things in common too. none of them bowed to fashion or chased points. each was imbued with a sense of optimism, vision and passion. each commanded huge respect and affection. all are sorely missed.
Yet the passing of Pontallier and hugel who were both only in their late fifties, and still in their prime, is especially hard to take. The thronged funeral services in riquewihr and at the 11th-century Basilique st-seurin in Bordeaux were, of course, standing room only.
In the following pages, we pay tribute to the lives and achievements of etienne hugel, Louis Latour and henri Bonneau. next month’s issue will include a special appreciation of Paul Pontallier. needless to say, april’s en primeur tastings were tinged with sadness by his absence.
The wine world has been permanently diminished by the grievous loss of this legendary quartet. But their legacies will undoubtedly live on through their indelible wines, accomplishments and reputations.