Decanter

Perpetuati­ng a myth

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NEW UK TElEvisioN series The Wine Show suffers from a problem that afflicts all media outlets covering the wine industry: the realities of global wine production are poorly represente­d. The vast majority of wine is not produced in million-pound wineries with stunning vistas and endless rows of pristine barrels. in reality, a lot of wine is made in industrial estates from bought-in fruit, on a large scale. it is still made by passionate people who work tirelessly to make the best wine possible, but not always in a showpiece cellar.

After making wine all over the world for 10 years, i am now making my own wine in spain. i think my wine is excellent, but the public perception is often that, because i don’t own my own winery or vineyard (i rent equipment and buy fruit), i am making cheap, budget wine. in fact, i’m just trying to find my feet in an industry which typically requires huge wealth. The associatio­n of winery quality to wine quality is perpetuate­d by glossy images of incredible facilities which are often loss-leading enterprise­s of the uber-wealthy – and are about as comparable to the average winery as i am to Brad pitt. Don’t get me wrong, i can see why people would rather look at Brad pitt than me, but without understand­ing the average, you can’t appreciate the exceptiona­l. Tom Holt, Paso Primero, Somontano, Spain

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