Decanter

The Médoc

- By Steven Spurrier

If ONE BANK was favoured over the other in 2015, it was the Right Bank, where the Merlots ripened superbly – especially elegant from limestone soils – and freshness and fragrance were added by Cabernet franc.

However, the Cabernet Sauvignon vines were in such good health that optimum ripeness was present in Margaux from 23 September and, thanks to dry weather, 95% of the crop had been picked by 10 october. Going north, the Cabernet vines took longer, but although picking was delayed by occasional rains, the Médoc harvest was completed 12 days later, one of the shortest vintages in recent years.

Like 2014, each commune retained its own particular characteri­stics, but with more precision and depth this year. With few exceptions the ‘femininity’ of Margaux shone through, the depth and homogeneit­y of St-Julien, the rigour of Pauillac to which freshness added a rare charm, and the robustness of St-Estèphe, where the late rains added more than a touch of elegance.

The general ripeness from Moulis was to the fore, and Listrac (often a bit edgy by comparison) was very attractive for the medium term. The Médocs from the gravelly soils in the north seemed to gain character alongside the ripe Merlot fruit, while Haut-Médoc is such a large, varied appellatio­n with so many dedicated châteaux, mostly crus bourgeois, that the choice was better than ever.

The dominant impression from top to bottom of the Gironde estuary, was of potential drinkabili­ty. The lighter wines may be opened for Christmas 2018, leave it another year for most of the Médocs and the Haut-Médocs from the south, and by autumn 2020 corks can be pulled on all but the firmer styles and the classed growths.

opinions from Left Bank châteaux were that the 2015s will not shut down as the 2005s did. Like the 2009s, the pleasure these ’15s will give in their youth will continue due to precision and balance. The good 2001s are still showing marvellous­ly at 15 years old with a way to go and the 2015s will give similar pleasure with a touch more freshness and charm.

 ??  ?? Above: Jean-René Matignon of Château Pichon Longuevill­e Baron pours Steven Spurrier a glass of his 2015
Above: Jean-René Matignon of Château Pichon Longuevill­e Baron pours Steven Spurrier a glass of his 2015

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