St-Estèphe

WiTH WATER-RETENTivE ClAy under light gravel, this commune does well in dry vintages. Heavy rain hit in midoctober, but such was the health of the grapes this had little effect once harvested. With five crus classés near the estuary, and many crus bourgeois surrounding them and further inland, St-Estèphe has been variable in the past but has recently shown much better results. The style here is sturdy (a delicate St-Estèphe is a contradiction) with a meaty staying power. Finesse is creeping in but not overriding these qualities. Some super wines in 2015, drinking from 2022.

■ Ch Lieujean CB 87 ■ Clos La Bohème CB 87 ■ Ch Du Moulin Rouge CB 86 ■ Ch Haut-Madrac 86 ■ Ch St-Paul CB 86 Château Calon-Ségur