Decanter

Sauternes & Barsac

- By Ian D’Agata

2015 is an excellent vintage in sauternes and Barsac. Wines are concentrat­ed and fleshy, but buoyed by lively acidity that keeps them from turning heavy or cloying. noble rot was widespread and the wines all show traces of its presence, but in my opinion less obviously than in recent vintages such as 2009, 2011 and 2014.

Weather in 2015 was characteri­sed by very high april temperatur­es and a few heavy showers, dramatical­ly increasing the risk of disease; in fact, black rot hit sauternes for the first time in about 40 years. Fortunatel­y much of May was dry and cool, so the threat was over quickly, and then 80mm of rain fell from 9-16 June to provide the vines with some refreshmen­t and water reserve. This rain did not occur throughout Bordeaux, so sauternes and Barsac avoided the water stress suffered by other appellatio­ns.

By contrast, July was very hot and dry – 2015 was the third warmest summer on record after 2003 and 2006. it was also an early harvest in 2015 (starting on 27 august at Château d’Yquem and on 8 september at Château Climens), and estates finished early as well.

Overall, the 2015s of sauternes and Barsac are big, rich wines that will match well with hearty foods, cheeses and desserts. The only caveat with some of the less successful wines is the trace of finishing bitterness – likely the result of thicker-than-usual skins that were not completely

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