Brook’s tasting tour of Austria

Emmerich Knoll, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Loibenberg, Wachau 2013

95 £ 28 Roberson Classic Wachau Grüner from a top estate. The nose is appley, spicy and vibrant, while the palate is rich, plump and concentrated, with depth and weight. Powerful, complex and stony, with very good length. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13.5%

Bernhard Ott, Spiegel Grüner Veltliner, Wagram 2013

93 £ 22-£ 26 Savage Selection, The Wine Society From Wagram’s leading Grüner Veltliner specialist, the Spiegel cuvée shows a muted apricot nose, but is rich, creamy and full-bodied on the palate. Concentrated and firm, with spice, grip and structure. Long. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 13%

Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Reserve, Gaisberg, Kamptal 2013 Prieler, Weisser Burgunder, Leithaberg, Leithaberg 2013

92 £ 23.20 Clark Foyster Bracingly herbal and appley on the nose. Rich, creamy and sumptuous on the palate, but there’s enough acidity to lead to a saline finish that cuts the weight of fruit. Good length. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14%

Salomon Undhof, Riesling, Kögl, Kremstal 2013

91 £ 16.95 Lea & Sandeman From weathered schist soils, this Riesling is all about refinement, with its elegant citrus aromas and lean, precise palate. It’s fresh and taut, with high acidity and great persistence. Still very youthful. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 12.5%

Wieninger, Wiener Gemischter Satz, Nussberg, Vienna 2013

91 £ 23.99 Liberty Wines, The Wine Reserve A superb field blend from one of Vienna’s top vineyards. Heady apricot aromas and a rich, suave, creamy palate that’s opulent but not heavy, and polished by fine acidity and length.

2016-2022 Alc 14%

Krutzler, Blaufränkisch Reserve, Eisenberg 2012