My top three

Chris Kissack

Domaine de St-Just, Montée des Roches, Saumur-Champigny 2014 Yves Lambert left finance to take up the secateurs in 1996, but after his passing in 2011 son Arnaud took up the mantle. I’m glad he did. I was particularly impressed by this cuvée, which I ranked my joint-top. 96 Drink 2018-2028

Château de Villeneuve, Le Grand Clos, Samur-Champigny 2011 Jean-Pierre Chevalier has terroir and experience on his side, and it shows in this, his top cuvée. It will age well too – I’m still waiting for the 2005 to come around! 95 Drink 2016-2024

Domaine de Rocheville, Le Page, Saumur-Champigny 2014 Proprietor Philippe Porché only arrived here in 2005, but his wines are classic, pure and ageworthy. This entry-level cuvée proves it. 91 Drink 2016-2022