My top three

Andy Howard MW

NB: the tasters’ top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learning the wines’ identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors

Hirsch Vineyards, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County 2013 A refined, elegant, modern Californian Chardonnay at the same quality level as top white Burgundy. Fresh and zesty with great purity and lift. Has the structure to age but is drinking beautifully now – why wait? 94 Drink 2016-2022

Calera, Mt Harlan, Central Coast 2014 The shy nose and powerful palate is more down the route of a Corton Charlemagne than normal Californian Chardonnays. With a mineral, limestoneinfluenced palate and restrained oak, this is still notably complex and persistent. 93 Drink 2016-2024

Au Bon Climat, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley, Central Coast 2014 Lovely purity, focus and gunflint notes from one of the original driving forces behind the Burgundian approach to Californian Chardonnay, Jim Clendenen. Always a great wine. 92 Drink 2016-2024