Morning

Chkhaveri and Ojaleshi. The wines these reds produce vary enormously depending on their terroirs: when planted in the rich river valleys they produce more body and colour; on higher slopes their perfumes and acidity increase, as do their distinct aromas.

Qvevri curiosity

Drive east from Tbilisi towards Kakheti and make your first stop after about an hour at Niki Antadze’s cellar, near Manavi. Antadze is one of Georgia’s most respected natural winemakers, and works with old vines of Mtsvane Kakhuri and Rkatsiteli for his delicious skin-macerated wines ( nikiantadze@gmail.com). From there it’s another hour to Sighnaghi, a stunning hilltop town surrounded by prime wine country. John Okruashvili’s handsome cellar is bang in the centre of town, with qvevris buried below the newly constructed tasting rooms (en-gb. facebook.com/okrojohn).