Grape varieties

Aligoté

While Aligoté is hardly rare – there are about 2,000ha in France, mostly in the greater Burgundy region, and it is widely planted in Eastern Europe – it doesn’t generally get the respect it sometimes deserves. It can be eye-wateringly tart and neutral, ideal as a base for kir, but older vines on good sites where the grapes reach full ripeness can produce distinctive wines that are piercingly fresh, herbal and stony. However, the variety is rarely allowed to enjoy top vineyard sites in Burgundy because Pinot Noir or Chardonnay are more profitable. Its parents are Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, so it is a sibling not only of Chardonnay but also of Gamay Noir and Melon de Bourgogne, with northeastern France its likely place of origin. Its two main appellations are Bourgogne Aligoté and Bouzeron and despite its mixed reputation and general lack of acclaim, some top producers in Burgundy produce excellent examples. Try those from Arnaud Ente, Michel Lafarge, David Moret, Sylvain Pataille and A&P de Villaine. I’d also recommend Au Bon Climat, a rare example in California. Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson MW, Julia Harding MW and José Vouillamoz; www.winegrapes.org