St-Emilion
THERE’s No DoubTiNg the quality of Merlot in st-Emilion this year. ‘in the first five days of fermentation we knew we had a great Merlot year,’ said Pierreolivier Cluet, technical director of Château Cheval blanc. Conditions were favourable, though there was stress in some vineyards in July (Cheval blanc rejected two parcels that suffered),
and crucially st-Emilion received less rain in september: 16mm compared to 87mm in the northern Médoc. The stamp of the different terroirs is clearly evident, none more so than in wines from the limestone-based plateau and côtes, the great success of 2015. Cabernet Franc also has a say in the structure and aromas if left to ripen fully. in winemaking terms, it was important to go easy on extraction and although better than in the past, some producers have continued to force the issue.
Exceptional
Ch Cheval Blanc 1GCCA 98 My Right Bank wine of the vintage, and close to perfection. 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Franc, representing 90.5% of this year’s production (no Petit Cheval this year). Exudes elegance, precision and class. Dense, fresh, perfumed and very velvety texture. Remarkable tannins allow a gentle attack then prodigious length and persistence. 2025-2050 left: olivier Bernard (standing, right), president of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux and owner of Domaine de Chevalier, chats to James lawther Mw (seated) at the Nouveau stade de Bordeaux
Outstanding
Ch Ausone 1GCCA 96 50% each Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Suave texture but so much power behind. Fine, fragrant pure berry fruit then real density and depth. Layered fruit and tannins but finely etched. 2025-2045 Ch Canon 1GCCB 96 Magnificent – the best under the Chanel regime. Fragrant dark fruit, spice and floral notes. Plentiful but fine tannins give a velvet texture. Elegant, with freshness from the limestone terroir. 2025-2045 Ch Angélus 1GCCA 95 62% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc. Rich, brooding spicy nose. Powerful frame but the tannins are fine and polished. Great depth and structure. Suave texture for such a big wine. Needs time. 2025-2040 Ch Figeac 1GCCB 95 Classic style but added precision this year. 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Cabernet Franc, 29% Merlot. Deep fruit and ripe, enrobed tannins and freshness. 100% new oak is completely integrated. 2025-2045 Ch Pavie 1GCCA 95 60% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and 18% Cab Sauvignon ( 18%). Powerful frame but tannins are refined. Opulent mid-palate but minerality and tension runs through to a firm, driving finish. 2025-2045 Ch trotte Vieille 1GCCB 95 49% each Merlot and Cab Franc with 2% Cab Sauvignon. Tannic power but round and defined. Impressive length and freshness. 100% new oak absorbed. One of the best ever from here. 2023-2045 le Dôme GC 95 80% Cab Franc. Fresh, floral, perfumed. A long way from its original (concentrated, oaky) style. Refined, velvety texture and well-matted tannins. Fresh, long finish. Elegance and harmony. 2023-2032
Highly Recommended
Chapelle d’Ausone, Ch Ausone 2l 94 9,000 bottles this year (more than usual), using 10% Cab Sauvignon. Fragrant, elegant, textured. Sweet fruit, fine tannins. Seductive but structured. 2022-2035 Ch Beau-séjour Bécot 1GCCB 94 Deep, reserved nose but a fragrant palate. Powerful but refined tannins. Smooth texture with freshness from the limestone terroir. Persistent finish. 2023-2040
Ch Bélair-Monange 1GCCB 94 Only 12ha of 23.5ha estate in production. Has come on leaps and bounds. Generous, fresh, precise fruit. Plentiful, ripe tannins. Limestone terroir shows. 2023-2040 Ch La Gaffelière 1GCCB 94 Refined and fragrant with lovely purity of fruit. The palate is fresh and finely etched. Shows balance and harmony. 2023-2040 Ch Valandraud 1GCCB 94 85% Merlot. Layered fruit of real vibrancy. Texture smooth and velvety. Tension as always, but with ripe tannins and generous fruit to give it harmony. 2023-2040 La Mondotte 1GCCB 94 Powerful tannic base but the tannins are ripe and round. Freshness from start to finish, so great harmony. Limestone terroir apparent. Now organic. 2028-2040 Ch Beauséjour 1GCCB 93 90% Merlot. Rich and ripe with dark fruit. A hint of jamminess on the nose. Palate smooth and suave with a power of tannin behind. Has tension. 2023-2035 Ch Bellevue GCC 93 100% Merlot. One of the best ever from here; part-owned by Angélus. Succulent fruit but fresh and lively with limestone terroir apparent. Long. 2022-2035 Ch Canon-la-Gaffelière 1GCCB 93 Delightfully perfumed and poised. Fruit very much to the fore backed by finegrained tannins and a persistent finish. Now organically certified. 2022-2038 Ch Larcis-Ducasse 1GCCB 93 87% Merlot, 13% Cab Franc. Maturity of raisin and blackcurrant fruit balanced by limestone terroir. Tight, firm and long with a slightly chewy finish. 2023-2035 Ch Le Prieuré GCC 93 Effects of new Latour partnership is clear. Beautifully textured with fine grain of tannin. Minerality but not exaggerated. Builds to a long, fresh finish. 2023-2035 Ch Pavie-Decesse GCC 93 90% Merlot from 3.65ha. True to style: ripe, powerful and firm with marked tension but more refinement in texture this year. One for the cellar. 2028-2040 Ch Pavie-Macquin 1GCCB 93 Wonderful fragrance this year. Lots of energy and minerality. Sweet fruit but not excessive. Builds on the finish. A refined power this year. Saline finish. 2025-2040 Ch Tertre-Rôteboeuf GC 93 True to style: plush and approachable with enticing aromatic complexity. Super ripe fruit but fresh and floral. Plentiful tannins smooth and long. 2022-2035 Ch Troplong-Mondot 1GCCB 93 Ripe and powerful with an unusual 8% Cab Sauvignon, pus 2% Cab Franc. Richly concentrated with sturdy but refined tannins. Touch of grainy oak. 2023-2040 Ch Valandraud, Blanc 93 Now one of Bordeaux’s top dry whites. Serious, refined nose with citrus and exotic fruit. Drive and persistence as well as mid-palate depth. Can age. 2018-2025 Clos Fourtet 1GCCB 93 Reticent nose but fragrant palate. Supple texture with plentiful but fine tannins. Length and freshness on the long finish. Limestone terroir evident. 2023-2040 Les Astéries GC 93 From a parcel near Fonroque. Defined, firm but ripe tannins wrapped in supple fruit. Lovely length with the limestone terroir showing. Ageworthy. 2023-2035 Vieux Ch Mazerat GC 93 A Jonathan Maltus (Le Dôme) wine from a parcel touching Angélus. Fine, opulent texture masks a big tannic frame. Long, powerful and strapping wine. 2023-2035 Ch Bellevue-Mondotte GC 92 A Gérard Perse (Pavie) property. Just 2ha. Dense, sweet and powerful. Tight and firm on finish. Minerality shows. 2023-2040 Ch La Dominique GCC 92 Dense, ripe and full dark fruit and spice with creamy oak. Generous, powerful and driving on the finish. Good length and tension. Harmonious. 2023-2035 Ch Quintus GC 92 The best yet from this new Haut-Brionowned estate (first vintage 2011). Full and fragrant with lots of depth, the palate showing greater precision. 2022-2035 Ch Rocheyron GC 92 A Peter Sisseck (Pingus) and Silvio Denz (Ch Faugère) wine. First vintage 2010 but this is the best yet. Exquisite refined and fresh fruit, fine tannins. Long. 2022-2035 Ch Barde-Haut GCC 91 Best yet from this estate. More harmony and precision than in the past. Ripe fruit, freshness and finely woven tannins. Limestone terroir evident. 2023-2035 Ch Berliquet GCC 91 Bright dark, chocolatey fruit. Firm, lifted and long with a chalky note. Good line and tension. Smooth texture and tannins. Limestone grip and freshness. 2022-2035 Ch Corbin GCC 91 Could be Annabelle Bardinet’s finest. Poised and precise. Really elegant this year. Smooth texture. Fine grain of tannin. Lift and length on the finish. 2022-2032 Ch Fleur-Cardinale GCC 91 One of the latest to harvest in St-Emilion. Rich, plush and modern – oozes fruit. Ripe, firm tannins with chocolatey oak. A come-hither style. 2020-2030 Ch Grand-Corbin-Despagne GCC 91 Consistent as usual; lots of energy and character. Bright, lifted aromatics and suave texture and tannins. Length and drive on the finish. Poised. 2022-2035 Ch Jean Faure GCC 91 50% Cab Franc and some Malbec. Lifted dark fruit and liquorice notes. Tannins are sweet, ripe and fine. Smooth texture with freshness. Very precise in 2015. 2021-2035 Ch Lassègue GC 91 Owned by Barbara Banke (Jackson Wine Wines) and French winemaker Pierre Seillan. 40% Cab Franc. Fine tannins and sumptuous fruit. GCC quality. 2022-2032 Ch Le Pontet GC 91 New release from Jonathan Maltus (Le Dôme) from a parcel on limestone plateau. More elegant; fresh and defined. Juicy, persistent and dry finish. 2022-2030 Ch Les Grandes Murailles GCC 91 100% Merlot. Same ownership as Clos Fourtet. Ripe with dark cherry notes and fine grain of tannin. Precise. 2022-2035 Ch Quinault L’Enclos GCC 91 New, elegant style clearly established.
Cabernet components up to 31%. Instantly fresh and floral with leafy, dark fruit notes. Gentle, refined and fresh. 2020-2030 Ch Sansonnet GCC 91 Dramatically improved in recent years. Solid example of the limestone plateau. Lots of minerality with a powerful but fine grain of tannin. Ageworthy. 2023-2035 Ch Soutard GCC 91 Investment beginning to pay here and the class of the terroir is apparent. Minerality with ample fruit and a fine grain of tannin. Builds to a long finish. 2023-2035 Clos La Madeleine GCC 91 Fragrant, ripe fruit. Rich constitution. Precise palate with lovely grain of tannin. Minerality provides freshness. 2022-2032 Virginie de Valandraud, Ch Valandraud 2L 91 The quintessence of parcels not classified for Valandraud. Seductive and creamy with lift and smooth, refined texture. Tannins ripe and very fine. 2023-2030 Ch Cadet-Bon GCC 90 Lovely grain of tannin. Smooth-textured and long. Balancing freshness as well. Bravo Stéphane Derenoncourt. 2021-2032 Ch Dassault GCC 90 Modern and appealing. Round, full and juicy dark fruit and lots of extract. Plentiful tannins that are ripe, fine and firm. Long finish with a touch of oak. 2022-2032 Ch de Pressac GCC 90 All five red varieties in the blend. Palate is opulent and fruit driven. Note of damson and dark cherry then freshness and length on the finish. Consistent value. 2020-2032 Ch Fombrauge GCC 90 Dark fruit with a touch of creamy, toasted oak. Generous fruit palate with plentiful, ripe tannins. Dense but harmonious and approachable. Will please. 2021-2032 Ch Grand-Mayne GCC 90 Charry, chocolate aromas. Supple and refined palate with a depth of generous fruit. Tight, firm finish. Powerful and long with ageing potential. 2023-2035 Ch Haut-Simard GC 90 Part of the Ausone stable. 40% Cabernet Franc from eight-year-old vines planted at 12,000 vines/ha. Pure and enticing. Best yet from this estate; delicious. 2020-2030 Ch La Fleur Morange GCC 90 Ample dark fruit with a real spicy, liquorice tone. Fine, dense tannins with freshness behind. Suave and long. 2022-2032 Ch Laforge GC 90 Mainly Merlot from a range of terroirs. Spicy and perfumed then bright and lifted on the palate. Well-groomed tannins. 2020-2027 Ch Le Carré GC 90 From a parcel near Clos Fourtet. Spicy and fragrant with fine texture and tannins, mid-palate sweetness then length on the finish. 2021-2028 Ch Monbousquet, Blanc 90 Sauvignon Blanc (60%), Sauvignon Gris, Semillon and Muscadelle. Exuberant style, then ripe and round on the palate with a point of acidity on the finish. 2017-2020 Ch Villemaurine GCC 90 More precision this year. Quality of fruit and tannins are really finely honed. Builds to a long, firm finish. Minerality of the terroir shows. 2022-2032 Clos des Jacobins GCC 90 Smooth and caressing palate. Jolly fruit with a hint of oak. Solid tannic frame but the tannins are ripe, fine and long. Persistent finish. 2022-2032 Clos Dubreuil GC 90 Modern and punchy rich, dark fruit. Huge depth with an impressive tannic frame. Powerful style, with the limestone terroir evident. 2022-2030 Clos-St-Martin GCC 90 Micro-cru of 1.3ha. On the limit of being over-ripe and full of damson, cherry and a hint of jam. Limestone freshnes just pulls it back into balance. 2022-2035 Dame de Trotte Vieille, Ch Trotte Vieille 2L 90 Young vines from Trotte Vieille and what was Ch Bergat. Serious second wine with a depth of fruit and fine structure. Fresh. Will be good value. 2021-2030
Recommended
■ Ch Bellefont-Belcier GCC 89 ■ Ch Cap-de-Mourlin GCC 89 ■ Ch Chauvin GCC 89 ■ Ch Côte de Baleau GCC 89 ■ Ch de Ferrand GCC 89 ■ Ch Fonplégade GCC 89 ■ Ch Franc-Mayne GCC 89 ■ Ch Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac GC 89 ■ Ch La Clotte GCC 89 ■ Ch La Couspaude GCC 89
■ Ch La Marzelle GCC 89 ■ Ch La Serre GCC 89 ■ Ch La Tour Figeac GCC 89 ■ Ch Larmande GCC 89 ■ Ch Laroque GCC 89 ■ Ch Laroze GCC 89 ■ Ch Lusseau GC 89 ■ Ch Monbousquet GCC 89 ■ Ch Moulindu-Cadet GCC 89 ■ Ch Moulin-St-Georges GC 89 ■ Ch Peby-Faugères GCC 89 ■ Clos Badon-Thunevin GC 89 ■ Clos l’Oratoire GCC 89 ■ Clos Romanile GC 89 ■ Le Dragon de Quintus 2L 89 ■ Saintayme GC
89 ■ Virginie de Valandraud, Ch Valandraud 89 ■ Arômes de Pavie 2L 88 ■ Carillon de L’Angélus, Ch Angélus 2L 88 ■ Ch Balestard-La-Tonnelle GCC 88 ■ Ch de Fonbel GC 88 ■ Ch Destieux GCC 88 ■ Ch du Parc GC 88 ■ Ch Faugères GCC 88 ■ Ch Fonroque GCC 88 ■ Ch Grand-Corbin GCC 88 ■ Ch Grand-Pontet GCC 88 ■ Ch Guadet GCC 88 ■ Ch Le Chatelet GCC 88
■ Ch Rol Valentin GC 88 ■ Ch St-GeorgesCôte-Pavie GCC 88 ■ Ch Teyssier GC 88
■ Ch Yon-Figeac GCC 88 ■ Clos Cantenac GC 88 ■ Clos des Baies GC 88 ■ Croix Canon, Ch Canon 2L 88 ■ Gracia GC 88
■ Petit-Figeac 2L 88 ■ 3 de Valandraud, Ch Valandraud 3L 87 ■ Ch Faurie-deSouchard GCC 87 ■ Ch Petit-Faurie-deSoutard GCC 87 ■ Ch Simard GC 87
■ Couvent des Jacobins GCC 87 ■ Poesia GC 87 ■ Angélique de Monbousquet 2L
86 ■ Ch Clos de Sarpe GCC 86 ■ Ch la Commanderie GCC 86 ■ Ch Pipeau GC 86