Decanter

Pomerol

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AfTER A TRiCky 2014, Pomerol is back on track with a succulent 2015. As with the limestone in St-Emilion, the clay in Pomerol was the factor that helped regulate the dry conditions in July. Tannin levels are high, though disguised by the fruit and texture, and the aromatics fresh and complex. ‘i’ve never detected so much violet before,’ says L’Eglise- Clinet’s Denis Durantou. The harvest was essentiall­y worry-free, the Merlot in by 25 September and the Cabernet franc by the first few days of October. The top estates are very

good, but the vintage, investment and more expertise encouragin­gly has spread quality to a greater number of the next tier of châteaux.

Outstandin­g

Ch Lafleur 97 51% Merlot, 49% Cab. ‘ Both varieties were good this year,’ says Baptiste Guinaudeau. True to form: complex, crafted wine with enormous depth and detail. Unctuous and layered with ripe tannins. 2027-2050 Ch Pétrus 97 Best yet from winemaker Olivier Berrouet (first vintage 2008). 30% of the crop was declassifi­ed. Lift and energy of floral, dark fruit and liquorice. Ripe, juicy and fresh. Powerful but with charm. 2025-2050 Vieux Ch Certan 97 Complete wine: complex, ripe fruit, suave texture, freshness and persistenc­e. Fine but abundant tannin; builds majestical­ly. ‘ It’s like 2010 with more Cab Franc ( 19%),’ says Alexandre Thienpont. 2023-2037 Ch Trotanoy 96 True to character. Subtle nose but exudes depth and power. Dark fruit and mineral complexity. Structured palate combining rich fruit, abundant, ripe tannins and freshness. Staying power. 2025-2050 Ch L’Eglise-Clinet 95 Only 4.2ha. 90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc. Unusually seductive aroma. Floral, berry and chocolate notes. Voluptuous fruit hides power of ripe tannins behind. Solid and seductive. Real potential. 2023-2045

Highly Recommende­d

Ch Hosanna 94 4ha vineyard. Powerful but subdued. Masses of dark fruit backed by abundant tannins that are finely polished with no aggression. Fresh and long. 2023-2040 Ch L’Evangile 94 After the leaner 2014, this is full-bodied, rich and opulent with a powerful presence of ripe tannin and freshness provided by 16% Cab Franc. Refined. 2022-2040 Ch Certan de May 93 Very fine this year. Blackcurra­nt, spice and blueberry nose and poised palate of dark fruit and finely polished tannins. Long and harmonious on the finish. 3022-2035 Ch Clinet 93 Ripe, pure and harmonious with dark fruit and toasted notes. Opulent mid-palate and finely honed tannins. Builds to a long, finish. Excellent this year. 3023-2035 Ch La Fleur-Pétrus 93 Now a 18.7ha estate. Round, full palate with fine, smooth texture and abundant, ripe tannins. Length and freshness; combines elegance and power. 2023-2035 Ch Nénin 93 Probably the most precise wine yet from this Léoville-Las Cases-owned property. Made in the house style. Less opulence than previous years but pure. 2023-2040 Les Pensées de Lafleur, Ch Lafleur 2L 93 More than just a second wine. 54% Merlot and 46% Cab Franc from a single parcel. The palate is creamy and suave, the fruit wrapping up a tannic frame. 2023-2037 Ch Gazin 92 Maintainin­g great consistenc­y these days. Big, bold and succulent with impressive depth of ripe fruit and tannins. Rich but balanced. A reliable purchase. 2022-2037 Ch Latour à Pomerol 92 The sleeper in the Moueix stable. Rich and weighty dark fruit with fine, fresh tannins that are ripe and rounded. Plenty of depth, offering good value. 2022-2035 Ch Petit-Village 92 A new winemaker and added refinement this year. Fragrant and floral with rounded tannins enrobed by ripe, zesty fruit. Has length and harmony; very complete. Ch Vray Croix de Gay 92 The Latour presence is obviously working. Super fruit depth marked by elegant texture and refined tannins. Smooth and long with good persistenc­e. 2022-2035 Clos L’Eglise 92 Aromatic complexity with a Burgundian nuance. The palate is fresh, fragrant and caressing, then powerful tannins provide length and drive on the finish. 2023-2035 Ch Beauregard 91 The estate has moved up a gear in 2015 and with new ownership. Bright, lifted fruit with purity and precision; opulence as well. Refined tannins. 2021-2032 Ch Bourgneuf 91 New generation at the helm showing constant progressio­n. The palate is round, full and fresh with fine tannins and a long finish. Will offer value. 2021-2033 Ch Feytit-Clinet 91 Bright and fragrant, with fine texture and tannins. Builds on the palate to provide length. Fresh and persistent, showing elegant weight and style. 2021-2033 Ch La Conseillan­te 91 A new winemaker and the style tweaked in 2015. Richer and denser with the tannic structure more assertive. Dry, grainy finish; may improve in barrel. 2023-2035 Ch La Croix de Gay 91 Dark and opulent with freshness as well. Lovely Merlot expression. Precise, tidy and long on the finish. 2022-2035 Ch Le Bon-Pasteur 91 Ripe and creamy with dark fruit and spice. Palate is rich and layered with a solid frame but tannins are finely honed. 2022-2035 Domaine de L’Eglise 91 Muted nose but has the quality of fruit and texture on dense mid-palate extract. Purity, precision and lift. Delicious; a bit of a sleeper. 2022-2035 Ch La Grave 90 Refined rather than opulent. Palate is bright and suave with freshness lingering. Ripe, firm tannins give length. Should be good value; will age. 2020-2032 Ch La Pointe 90 Fragrant, zesty, dark fruit. Fresh palate but with opulence. Tannins finely honed – lighter framed but very pure and precise. Should be good value. 2021-2030

Ch Rouget 90 Rich, ripe and modern. Firm extraction gives plenty of weight and depth. Plentiful tannins, and the oak is a touch intrusive on the finish. 2020-2030 Clos du Clocher 90 Dark, dense and opulent, showing lovely depth of ripe fruit. Oak and winemaking a touch present. Tight, firm structure. Good potential. 2022-2032

Recommende­d

■ Ch Bellegrave 89 ■ Fugue de Nénin, Ch Nénin 2L 89 ■ La Petite Eglise, Ch l’Eglise Clinet 2L 89 ■ Ch La Cabanne 88 ■ Ch La Croix du Casse 88 ■ Ch Lafleur-Gazin 88 ■ Ch Montviel 88 ■ Ch Taillefer 88 ■ Clos du Beau-Père 88 ■ Duo de Conseillan­te, Ch La Conseillan­te 2L 88

 ??  ?? Above: James Lawther MW interviews Pierre Seillan, the part-owner and winemaker at Château Lassègue, in the barrel cellars of the St-Emilion grand cru (see p64)
Above: James Lawther MW interviews Pierre Seillan, the part-owner and winemaker at Château Lassègue, in the barrel cellars of the St-Emilion grand cru (see p64)
 ??  ?? Château Gazin
Château Gazin
 ??  ?? Above: James Lawther MW at Château Angélus, tasting some of the 210 Right Bank wines he rated for
Decanter’s en primeur report
Above: James Lawther MW at Château Angélus, tasting some of the 210 Right Bank wines he rated for Decanter’s en primeur report

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