Expert summary:
No Outstandings, but with 70% of wines Recommended or more, and priced from as little as £5.99, there’s some great drinking to be had from both 2014 and 2015
GIveN THe quALITy of both 2014 and 2015, the results of this tasting were slightly disappointing with no Outstanding wines. But when one considers that 70% of wines were Recommended or more, and that the majority are priced relatively keenly, the rationale for purchasing Bourgogne Blanc can be better understood.
The panel did not show any great preference for either 2014 or 2015, suggesting that the leaner, racier, more structured style of 2014 appeals as much as the fleshier, riper 2015s. Oak influence was favoured, with 70% of Recommended and Highly Recommended benefiting from the extra complexity imparted by some time in wood. Although Bourgogne Blanc can be racy and precise without the influence of oak, it can be simple and dilute if over-cropped or poorly made.
Most Highly Recommended wines were produced by domaine and family producers, but with considerable diversity in terms of size and location. From the south of the region, the family estate of Andre Dupuis (in the north of the Mâconnais), Collovray & Terrier and the Cave de viré (Côte Chalonnaise) performed well. What was encouraging is the excellent value offered – particularly the latter pair at just under £12 a bottle.
From the heart of the Côte d’Or, a number of famous names produced wines in the Highly Recommended category. Drouhin has vineyards across the length and breadth of Burgundy, whereas Domaine Chapuis is a small estate based in Aloxe-Corton, to the north of Beaune. The top villages of Meursault and PulignyMontrachet were also represented by Michel Bouzereau et Fils and renowned Puligny producer François Carillon. The Boisset Clos les ursulines is selected from parcels dotted about the Côte de Beaune, with the emphasis on long, slow fermentation and subtle use of oak. All of these wines showed most, if not all, of these characters.
Surprisingly, a few top domaines did not perform as expected, such as Domaine Dujac (Recommended) and Domaine de la vougeraie and Domaine etienne Sauzet (both Commended). It is hoped that these wines, from renowned producers, are simply going through a closed phase. Most Bourgogne Blanc can be appreciated when youthful but in the case of top estates, a little more patience may be required.
‘It shows the leaner, racier, more structured style of 2014 appeals as much as the fleshier, riper 2015s’