Travel: Gaillac
This characterful corner of France’s southwest boasts rural charm, authentic gastronomy and a unique range of experiences for wine lovers, reports local resident Andy Howard MW
Andy Howard MW leads us southwest for an authentic flavour of France
GAILLAC PROUDLY CLAIMS to be the oldest wine-producing area in France. Although other regions make similar assertions, wine was certainly being shipped from Gaillac in the 2nd century BC. The Tarn, a beautiful, easily accessible part of southwest France, is well loved as a holiday destination and yet the wines are still relatively unknown – and frustratingly unavailable. However, times are changing, and the wines of Gaillac have never been more appealing for enthusiasts looking for something different.
The beautiful, verdant countryside brings to mind England’s Chiltern Hills crossed with Tuscany and a little bit of Piedmont, the medieval bastide villages perched on hilltops providing stunning views of valleys and vineyards. This is a popular area for cycling and, providing you can manage the climbs, it’s a wonderful way to travel between wineries. The area is also renowned for walking holidays, with the major GR46 footpath running through the ancient Grésigne forest – the source of oak for Napoleon’s navy.
Strong food and wine traditions abound in the Tarn region, providing another reason to fall in love with the area. I have been visiting for more than 20 years, and since 2001 have owned a house in the heart of the wineproducing area, so am well and truly among those who have fallen for its charms.
Gaillac’s vineyard area is comparable in size to that of nearby regions Madiran and Cahors, and shares with them a similar climate, benefiting from the maritime influences of the Atlantic. However, Gaillac is just an hour by motorway from France’s fourth city, Toulouse, and due to its proximity to the western edge of Languedoc-Roussillon, has wonderful weather throughout the year. May, June (when wild flowers abound) and September are lovely times to visit. If you’re here in August, make sure to visit the annual wine festival held over one weekend early in the month – it’s a great opportunity to meet nearly all the local producers. And save a Planted area (AP) 3,300ha Production 150,000hl Main grape varieties Red Braucol White Mauzac Rare grapes varieties Red Duras, Prunelard White Loin de l’Oeil, Ondenc, Verdanel Producers 108 Co- ops 2