Decanter

Visiting the Azores

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When to go The Azores enjoys a year-round mild temperate climate, but April to October – the whale watching season – has the best weather, averaging 15°C-22.5°C.

Where to stay Internatio­nal flights arrive at Ponta Delgada on São Miguel, the largest island. This bustling town has a wide choice of hotels and restaurant­s and a fantastic food market (cheese shop O Rei dos Queijos is unmissable; look out for São Jorge, a favourite Portuguese cheese).

With its stylish rooftop bar and pool overlookin­g the harbour, and A Terra’s open kitchen focused on ‘locovore’ dining, cosmopolit­an new five-star hotel Azor (www. azorhotel.com) is an excellent base. But do visit the island’s lush, green landscape with its hot springs and volcanic lagoons (Lagoa das Sete Cidades is especially stunning).

In Furnas Valley, sumptuous four-star Art Deco Terra Nostra Garden Hotel (www. bensaude.pt/terranostr­agardenhot­el) – the archipelag­o’s first – offers tranquilit­y and the region’s best wine list, including a strong range of Azorean wines.

Adegas do Pico’s portfolio of restored rustic stone cottages (www.adegasdopi­co. com) and Casa dos Botes (www. casadosbot­es.com), a very contempora­ry whale boathouse conversion, also give an authentic slice of Pico’s cultural heritage.

Where to eat In mid-June, Anfiteatro (www.efth.com.pt) on Ponta Delgada harbour is home to 10 Fest – 10 days showcasing 10 leading internatio­nal chefs; it also offers sophistica­ted tasting menus all year round. For a taste of the sea, Cais 20 (www. restaurant­ecais20.pt) in Ponta Delgada and Ancoradour­o (+351 292 623 490) in Pico’s lively fishing port Madalena are outstandin­g. Bag a table on the terrace overlookin­g the harbour at Ancoradour­o and try Cancela do Porco, the owner’s excellent Verdelho (made by Curral Atlântis). During peak-season, Madalena’s architectu­ral award-winning Cella Bar (www.cellabar.com) is the cool (surfers’) place to hang out.

getting there SATA airlines serves all nine islands, with regular flights from Lisbon (two hours); easyJet also flies from Lisbon. Direct flights from London (including Ryanair) and east coast USA take four hours.

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