Decanter

Château Vray Croix de Gay

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Billed on its website as ‘the most affordable of the great Pomerols’ – and it’s hard to disagree. This 4ha property includes a plot of vines near Château Trotanoy and another near Château Lafleur, combining heat-retaining gravel and clay. Former Petrus director Jean-Claude Berrouet has consulted here since 2014; in the same year oenologist Pénélope Godefroy arrived from Château Latour in Pauillac. She is converting the estate to biodynamic viticultur­e and since 2015 has used preparatio­ns such as horsetail, nettle and camomile to help fight fungal diseases. ‘Biodynamic work really helps the vine to balance itself in various climatic and physiologi­cal conditions,’ she explains. Since 2014, extraction­s have been softer, leading to greater elegance and precision. Prices are increasing, but it still represents excellent value.

Château Vray Croix de Gay 2015 94

£42.83 (ib)-£60 Corkr, Fine & Rare, Millésima A supple blend of 83% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc that is deceptivel­y soft. The velvety texture of the rounded palate gives immediate pleasure. There’s a charming floral aspect that combines violets and white spring flowers. Fine notes of new leather as well as bright fruit. Wonderful!

Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14.5%

Château Vray Croix de Gay 2005 91

£ 29.17-£ 35.45 (ib) Lay & Wheeler, Wine Owners Exchange While the 2015 really impressed, this vintage is not as balanced. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, it’s also less dense and opulent, though it does show fruit-driven expression. Vray Croix de Gay is a fine example of a Pomerol that has improved over the last 10 years. Drink 2018-2024 Alc 13.5% D

Panos Kakaviatos is a journalist, wine writer, educator and judge. He is also the publisher of www.wine-chronicles.com

 ??  ?? Above: harvest time at Château Vray Croix de Gay
Above: harvest time at Château Vray Croix de Gay
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