Château Vray Croix de Gay

Decanter - - POMEROL -

Billed on its web­site as ‘the most af­ford­able of the great Pomerols’ – and it’s hard to dis­agree. This 4ha prop­erty in­cludes a plot of vines near Château Trotanoy and an­other near Château Lafleur, com­bin­ing heat-re­tain­ing gravel and clay. For­mer Petrus di­rec­tor Jean-Claude Ber­rouet has con­sulted here since 2014; in the same year oe­nol­o­gist Péné­lope Gode­froy ar­rived from Château La­tour in Pauil­lac. She is con­vert­ing the es­tate to bio­dy­namic viti­cul­ture and since 2015 has used prepa­ra­tions such as horse­tail, net­tle and camomile to help fight fun­gal dis­eases. ‘Bio­dy­namic work re­ally helps the vine to bal­ance it­self in var­i­ous cli­matic and phys­i­o­log­i­cal con­di­tions,’ she ex­plains. Since 2014, ex­trac­tions have been softer, lead­ing to greater el­e­gance and pre­ci­sion. Prices are in­creas­ing, but it still rep­re­sents ex­cel­lent value.

Château Vray Croix de Gay 2015 94

£42.83 (ib)-£60 Corkr, Fine & Rare, Mil­lésima A sup­ple blend of 83% Mer­lot and 17% Caber­net Franc that is de­cep­tively soft. The vel­vety tex­ture of the rounded palate gives im­me­di­ate plea­sure. There’s a charm­ing flo­ral as­pect that com­bines vi­o­lets and white spring flow­ers. Fine notes of new leather as well as bright fruit. Won­der­ful!

Drink 2018-2040 Alc 14.5%

Château Vray Croix de Gay 2005 91

£ 29.17-£ 35.45 (ib) Lay & Wheeler, Wine Own­ers Ex­change While the 2015 re­ally im­pressed, this vin­tage is not as bal­anced. A blend of 90% Mer­lot and 10% Caber­net Franc, it’s also less dense and op­u­lent, though it does show fruit-driven ex­pres­sion. Vray Croix de Gay is a fine ex­am­ple of a Pomerol that has im­proved over the last 10 years. Drink 2018-2024 Alc 13.5% D

Panos Kakavi­atos is a jour­nal­ist, wine writer, ed­u­ca­tor and judge. He is also the pub­lisher of www.wine-chron­i­cles.com

Above: har­vest time at Château Vray Croix de Gay

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