From the cellar

Henschke, Mt Edelstone Shiraz 1994

Johann Christian emigrated from German Silesia in 1841 to found the family vineyards from which 2018 will produce Henschke’s 151st vintage. Nearby Mount Edelstone vineyard was planted to 100% Shiraz in 1912 by Ronald Angas. It was his son Colin who first offered the grapes to fourth-generation Cyril Henschke in the early 1950s, Cyril finally acquiring the vineyard in 1974. Stephen and Prue Henschke took over in 1979 and their son Johann crosses the world as a passionately articulate brand ambassador. His presentation at Mayfair’s 28°-50° restaurant began with a superb Julius Riesling 2017 from 50-year-old Eden Valley vines, passed to the classic Louis Semillon 2015, then Cyril Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (with 7% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot, a beautifully made Bordeaux blend), and the Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2013 – dark colour, smooth and rich with black pepper and sage, textured tannins, a firmness to the finish, good for 20 years yet. Finally, after a superb Hill of Grace 2012, some of the Shiraz vines dating back to the 1860s, came the Mount Edelstone 1994 (95/100pts), still young, wonderful freshness, a very ‘vertical’ Shiraz but not too grippy, with structured precision and restrained length, wonderful now to 2024.