For the cellar

Pio Cesare, Barolo 2014

The Pio Cesare Piedmontese wine company was founded by Cesare Pio in 1881 in Alba, where, in much-expanded form, it exists to this day. Cesare’s granddaughter Rosy Pio married Giuseppe Boffa and their son Pio Boffa (b.1954) is now in charge, aided by his nephew Cesare Benvenuto and daughter Federica Rosy. For his 60th birthday Pio Boffa bought himself the 10ha Mosconi vineyard in Monforte d’Alba, bringing the family holdings to 70ha across the best terroirs. An indefatigable traveller for his wines, Boffa was in London recently to present the Mosconi Barolo 2016 and 2015, along with his famous Ornato Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba) and the ‘classic’ Barolo from 2016, 2015, 2014, 2006, 2000 and 1997. These last two were simply superb, and while the Ornato Barolo 2000 and 2006 took my highest marks (98), for my own cellar I would choose the classic

Barolo 2014 (94). The grapes come from seven vineyards, four in Serralunga d’Alba, which are vinified together, so the blend is made right at the start, producing around 70,000 bottles after 18 months in large oak. This was a good, not great vintage, showing florality and red rather than black fruits, fine persistence, purity and length – a simply lovely wine for drinking from 2020 to 2034 and beyond.