Ettore Germano, Cerretta

Decanter average score: 97/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Stephen Brook 98 Michael Garner 96 Susan Hulme MW 97 £65 Astrum

Under the ownership of the Germano family for five generations, this estate currently spans 18 hectares of vineyard. This Barolo is sourced from one of Serralunga d’Alba’s most important crus, Cerretta, an expansive hill facing south/southwest. While adopting modern techniques – stainless steel is much in evidence – the winemaking is rooted in tradition: fermentation is short, around 12-15 days, in open wooden fermenters and maturation is completed in a variety of barrel sizes. The Cerretta spends 24 months in 700-litre French oak barrels, 15%-20% new, and then a further 15-18 months in bottle before release.

Stephen Brook Hefty nose of smoky bacon but with ample plummy fruit too. Very rich and forthright, highly concentrated, with firm acidity and tannins. Still youthful and almost raw, as the alcohol is a bit too apparent, but it’s still harmonious and voluptuous with admirable length; will go the distance.

Michael Garner Firmly structured, with a core of sweet fruit encircled by notes of liqueur cherry, almond and charred spice; some freshness still, with plentiful tannins to finish. Good.

Susan Hulme MW High-toned, smoky, iodine aromas. Darkly powerful, intensely concentrated palate with very firm tannins closing the fruit down right now, but this has huge concentration, energy and drive.

Drink 2019-2031 Alcohol 15%