Artisan approach
Keeping in mind how small this area is, it is not surprising that most of the estates are limited in production, which in turn means greater specialisation. ‘We’re a much smaller zone, so we’ve been able to better maintain the artisanal philosophy,’ comments Simone Rech, owner of Tenuta Amadio. While his statement is clearly a generalisation, as there are a few producers that offer average quality, more often than not the local vintners do take that extra step.
Perhaps the most evident example of that is displayed at Loredan Gasparini, in the hamlet of Volpago del Montello, situated in the southern reaches of the production zone. Best known for making a celebrated red Bordeaux blend known as Capo di Stato for five decades (see box), owner Lorenzo Palla has recently expanded his output of Asolo Prosecco, with four distinct examples. Along with the entry-level DOCG Superiore products, there is also a line known as Cuvée Indigena, and one named Monti, both produced from grapes of a single vineyard planted in 1975. Finally, he crafts a classical-method Prosecco, although the words ‘metodo classico’ do not appear on the label, due to regulations.
All of the Gasparini wines offer lovely freshness and impressive varietal purity, but most of all they are refined, with notable complexity. The Monti 2016, from a warm year, is a bit short on the finish, but otherwise displays very good focus; while the 2013, from an exceptional growing season, offers complex fruit aromas, along with the structure and depth of fruit to show well in another two to three years. The Cuvée Indigena 2016 has excellent persistence and complexity, along with a great sense of finesse. It is a true pleasure to witness how this producer – known for years for its Bordeaux-blend red – has become one of the foremost Prosecco producers in the area.
Other noteworthy Asolo Proseccos include the Montelvini Extra Dry, with its enticing ginger and yellow peach aromatics, and delicate sweetness; the Ghisolana Extra Dry, which has greater floral aromas, and is drier than most other Extra Dry examples; and the Tenuta Baron Extra Dry Millesimato 2016, which displays very pretty aromas of orange blossom, jasmine and magnolia, supported by excellent persistence.