Evans’ pick: renegade Riojas

Gómez 2014 £ 30 Millésima 92 Cruzado, Honorable, Rioja Honorable is the revived Gómez Cruzado’s most traditional Rioja. A classic blend of varieties from the estate’s oldest vineyards gives a dense, succulent wine, that’s bold with spice and a lift of orange zest. Drink 2018-2023 Alc 14.5% Palacios Remondo, La Montesa Crianza, Rioja 2015 92 £ 17.95 Christopher Keiller, Raeburn Spot- on: La Montesa is now in its right place. Ripe, polished Garnacha, with notes of herbs and spice, and a slight seasoning of Tempranillo. Long, confident, finely integrated oak, fullflavoured finish. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 14%

Sierra de Toloño, La Dula, Rioja 2016 91 £ 37.50 Lea & Sandeman Sandra Bravo’s Garnacha vineyard is located at a chilly and windy 650m above sea level. Fermented and aged in 300-litre amphoras. This is Garnacha with a fresh, pure aspect, and a finely textured finish. Drink 2018-2023 Alc 13.5%

Lively Wines, La Bicicleta Voladora, Rioja 2015 90 £ 14.50 (2017) Cambridge Vinopolis, Indigo Wine A new project, with grapes sourced from the small part of Rioja that’s in Navarra. Tempranillo, organic viticulture, aged in concrete tanks and Flextank eggs. Lively, generous, drink-me-now. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.5%

Ramón Bilbao, Viñedos de Altura, Rioja 2014 89 £ 14.50 Carruthers & Kent, Christopher Keiller, Raeburn A special project at Ramón Bilbao, produced in search of higher altitude, cooler climates and clearer vineyard expression. The bright cherry fruit is overlaid by spice. Work still in progress; but this will definitely be worth revisiting.