Decanter

David González

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One of the centenaria­n bodegas in Haro’s Barrio de la Estación station district. David González is the front man for the Gómez Cruzado business and he is rapidly transformi­ng it, with help from his viticultur­ist partner Juan Antonio Leza. The duo are less renegades and more innovators. As they have no estate vineyards, they are able to seek out a range of fruit from distinctiv­e sites. Honorable is their classic Rioja, but keep an eye out for exciting new releases from them, which focus on terroir wines. These include the cool, higher-altitude Garnacha-Tempranill­o blend Pancrudo. Their white wines are particular­ly interestin­g: notably Montes Obarenes, named after its chilly mountain origin, the 2015 a blend of Viura with 25% Tempranill­o Blanco, which is partially fermented and aged in concrete eggs.

 ??  ?? Juan Antonio Leza (left) and David González
Juan Antonio Leza (left) and David González

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