Kre­biehl’s pick of Cen­tral Otago

Decanter - - CENTRAL OTAGO -

Quartz Reef, Meth­ode Tra­di­tionelle, Bendigo 2012

94 N/A UK This vin­tage re­lease of 91% Chardon­nay and 9% Pinot Noir spent 46 months on lees and is a pic­ture of bril­liance and fresh­ness. Creamy ap­ple notes on the nose turn into drive and acidic thrill on the palate, ac­com­pa­nied by vivid, ripe ap­ple fruit and sub­tle, dis­tinc­tive, lemony au­tol­y­sis. This is a se­ri­ous, joy­ous, very long and in­tensely fresh wine. Pure drink­ing plea­sure. Drink 2018-2028 Al­co­hol 12.5%

Mount Ed­ward, Mor­ri­son Vine­yard Ries­ling, Low­burn 2015 93

£ 19.95 Al­liance Wine, Wine Di­rect Lifted pu­rity of lime zest and Granny Smith ap­ple spells both se­ri­ous­ness and re­fresh­ment. With some evo­lu­tion, this is slowly hit­ting its stride. The palate shows crys­talline acid­ity, which cre­ates lots of ten­sion be­tween ap­ple sweet­ness and zesty thrill. There is so much lime that you might al­most think this fin­ishes dry.

Drink 2018-2035 Alc 12%

Valli, The Real McCoy Pinot Gris Or­ange Wine, Gibb­ston Val­ley 2016 93 POA New Gen­er­a­tion

This, in ef­fect, is a Pinot Gris treated as though it was Pinot Noir: 100% fer­mented on skins, then 14 months in used oak. The colour veers from deep salmon to am­ber; the nose has rose petal, white pep­per and peach. With a palate merely haunted by tan­nin this is beau­ti­fully pure and pre­cise. Un­usual but dis­arm­ing. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 13%

Two Pad­docks, Pic­nic Ries­ling, Alexan­dra 2017 91

£ 24.30 The New Zealand Cel­lar For sheer fun, en­joy­ment, ex­u­ber­ance and lev­ity this just off-dry Ries­ling gets full marks. It is light and fresh with vivid green ap­ple and bright le­mon notes. The palate is zesty and oh so juicy. Un­der­neath is se­ri­ous in­tent and enough stuff­ing to al­low for some bot­tle age – but don’t let that hold you back. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 12.5%

Rip­pon, Rip­pon Ma­ture Vine Pinot Noir, Wanaka 2015

96 £ 37.95 (2013) Lea & San­de­man The most per­fumed nose, with white pep­per, wet peb­ble and red berry aro­mas. These soar­ing aro­mat­ics are toned down on the taut and firm palate, which is still tightly coiled. This is a par­a­digm of bal­ance, of seam­less­ness, of el­e­gance. All of Otago’s wilder­ness is dis­tilled here in a serene, de­li­cious and ut­terly har­mo­nious beauty. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 13.5%

Fel­ton Road, Cor­nish Point Pinot Noir, Ban­nock­burn 2016 95

Nicholson, The £ Just 30 NZ a (ib)-£49.95 gen­tle Cel­lar, Jus­terini whiff The Wine BI, of & James Brooks, red­cur­rant So­ci­ety here savouri­ness. with a hint The of red box­wood fruit con­tin­ues on the con­cen­trated but charm­ing palate, where the finest tan­nins un­fold. With some air, both flo­ral notes and rasp­berry ap­pear. Al­ways the most dreamy of all the Fel­ton Pinots. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 13.5%

Ak­itu, A1 Pinot Noir, Wanaka 2016 94

£ Green, NZ The 36-£40 Cel­lar, Wine The Re­serve, The Eden­croft, Cham­pagne NZ House Wine Noble Co, of Utopia Wine, The Sub­tle nose. The cherry palate notes is a on lovely the ex­pres­sion of un­forced bal­ance, an in­ter­play be­tween aro­matic, ripe fruit and brac­ing fresh­ness with a lovely savoury glint. Noth­ing is over­done here: just 25% of the oak was new, while 40% whole-bunch gives back­bone and struc­ture along­side the fresh­ness. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14%

Burn Cot­tage, Pinot Noir, Cromwell Basin 2015 94

£49.99 En­tic­ing, Avail­able heady notes via UK of agent ripe, Lib­erty red cherry Wines have the mer­est touch of Amarena and spell plea­sure right away. Splen­did fruit is joined by fresh acid­ity on the palate and a fine frame that shim­mers with pep­per and thyme. Full of fruit, with a quiet, con­vinc­ing and beau­ti­ful en­ergy. Fin­ish is brood­ing and full of prom­ise. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 13.5%

Prophet’s Rock, Cu­vée aux An­tipodes Pinot Noir, Bendigo 2016 94

£70.30 A with A Kiwi-Bur­gun­dian sub­tle help (2015) lift from of red, François Exel tart pro­duc­tion cherry Mil­let. and On the wet palate peb­ble it’s on a pic­ture the nose. of pre­ci­sion: con­cise, taut, tart but ripe fruit per­vaded by glo­ri­ous fresh­ness. A gen­tle brush of tan­nin against the tongue. The soar­ing, aro­matic qual­ity, poetic in its way, is sup­ported by a firm, fresh frame. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14%

Car­rick, Ban­nock­burn Pinot Noir, Ban­nock­burn 2015 93

£ 28.40-£ 30 (2014) Exel, Great Western Wine Savoury, herbal notes pre­cede ripe but tart red­cur­rant fruit. Very fine tan­nins give the most pleas­ant, gen­tle crunch. Back­bone and bite al­low the fruit to be­come lu­mi­nous. Im­pres­sive. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 13.5%

Ceres, Artists Col­lec­tion In­let Vine­yard Pinot Noir, Ban­nock­burn 2015 93

£70 Matthew Clark Fra­grant no­tions of red­cur­rant and thyme on the nose con­tinue with a stream­lined, chan­nelled en­ergy along the palate. Fresh­ness and drive are the hall­marks. The pure na­ture of the fruit shines through with bright­ness and verve, un­bur­dened by any new oak. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14%

Cloudy Bay, Te Wāhi Pinot Noir, Ban­nock­burn 2015 92

£60 (2014) Clos 19 Flo­ral over­tones of new oak play on the nose. The palate is a pic­ture of re­strained sump­tu­ous­ness: al­though the tex­ture is rich, the body re­mains slen­der. Fresh­ness, white pep­per spice and gen­tle, dark cherry fruit char­ac­ters. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14%

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