All in the mind

Decanter - - LETTERS -

COravIn Has truly changed how I ap­proach wine. never again will I bring a corked bot­tle to a tast­ing. I can drink a favourite bot­tle, one glass at a time, over the course of a year. Or I can just check where in the drink­ing win­dow a wine is. still I hear scep­ti­cal com­ments that im­ply ox­i­da­tion is tak­ing place in the bot­tle, de­spite the ar­gon that re­places the wine. re­ally? I re­cently re­vis­ited a pri­vate cel­lar in the us, where in the au­tumn of 2015 we Co­ravined a num­ber of leg­endary Bordeaux. the flight in­cluded a stun­ning Mis­sion Haut Brion 1959, where we si­phoned out ap­prox­i­mately one third of the bot­tle. this septem­ber we Co­ravined an­other glass from the same bot­tle – it was still in per­fect con­di­tion. For me, that in­di­cates that it’s all a mat­ter of per­cep­tion. a half-empty bot­tle can be viewed as an opened bot­tle, or an ‘ac­cessed bot­tle’. dar­ing to use Coravin for your top wines is a mat­ter of mind­set. Gunnar Sones­son, Stock­holm

Left: Some read­ers may find it hard to re­late to cer­tain tast­ing note de­scrip­tors (see right)

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