Anson’s pick: Bordeaux 1989 vs 1990 – Left Bank

Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien 1989 92 £ 132.67 (ib)-£ 155 Christopher Piper, Corkr, Crump Richmond Shaw, Friarwood, Roberson, Top Selection A lovely, classic example of a fully mature St-Julien, replete with ripe berry fruits and tannins that whisper rather than shout. You’re pulling up a chair right by the fireside here, where the embers are still warm. Coffee, cedar and sandalwood take the lead over brambly black fruits. This is lovely, but unquestionably fully evolved and open. Drink 2018-2028 Alcohol 13% Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien 1990 94 £ 124.58 (ib)-£252.99 Corkr, Christopher Keiller, Crump Richmond Shaw, Hedonism, Jeroboams, Lay & Wheeler, Richard Kihl, Top Selection, T Wright Damien Barton-Sartorius was born in 1990, and he’ll be happy to hear that this vintage stands up well against the 1989. It has clearer tannins, is deeper and still virile, taking a long time to open in the glass but then holding on, getting more and more interesting. Sill pretty young, with rich, velvety and well-handled tannins, plus a vibrant core of cassis and mulberry notes. Well balanced, confident and deeply spiced. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13%

Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien 1989 91 £91.25-£ 127 (ib) Appellations, Bordeaux Vintners, Crump Richmond Shaw, Grand Vin, Top Selection The colour remains a deep ruby, with burnt caramel arriving midpalate. Not quite as luscious as the 1990 vintage at this stage of the game, but still full of vigour. There is shape and form to the tannins and fruit that suggests you are in safe hands. Smoked notes of an autumn fireside draw things to a close. Still much to look forward to. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 13% Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien 1990 96 £253-£259.17 (ib) Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Top Selection The nose lifts right out of the glass and reminds the world how Bordeaux can age. You’ll find chocolate, hazelnut, plum, soft liquorice root; a wonderful testament to a brilliant vintage, delivering on its potential even three decades later. I love the softness of the tannins and the freshness at close of play – daring you to suggest when it is going to finally bow out. This is exactly what people look for in older Bordeaux. Smudged around the edges but a core of pure fruit expression, fully integrated with melted oak notes. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13% Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 1989 97 £450-£510 (ib) Corkr, Crump Richmond Shaw, Grand Vin, Richard Kihl, Top Selection, T Wright An extremely early year for the property, with harvest from 6-25 September. One to savour, it has the signature smoked, toasted glamour of Mouton, with cappuccino, crushed bilberry and blackberries, pliable tannins, and a drawn-out finish that gets better and better in the glass. The label, by the way, featured Georg Baselitz, a German painter, to celebrate the fall of the Berlin Wall. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13%

Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 1990 94 £452.42 (ib)-£655 Crump Richmond Shaw, Hedonism, Top Selection Just pipped by its older sibling. Harvest lasted 18 September to 3 October, and grapes underwent a serious sorting after uneven ripening (they also did green harvesting). Autumn hedgerow aromatics with hawthorn and blackberries. The palate is soft and gentle, not as intense as the 1989 but still loaded with Pauillac signature. It didn’t get the most positive reaction on release, but this seems unfair at 30 years of age – this wine is still rippling with power. Label artist Francis Bacon, with one of his last works. Drink 2018-2032 Alc 13%