Walls’ pick: a dozen great Ventoux buys
Domaine Vintur, Cuvée Séléné, Edition Luna 2014 94
£ 19.95 www.vintur.fr Grown on clay-limestone soils at 130m, and aged for two years in second-use barrels. The oak is fully integrated into the quince fruit, lending vanilla fudge and nougat notes. A gastronomic style, showing body, texture and energy in a wine that demonstrates the ageworthiness of top-quality white from Ventoux.
Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 13.5%
Chêne Bleu, Rosé 2017 90
£ 16.60 Justerini & Brooks From vines grown at 550m. With its pale salmon pink colour, this has attractive aromatics between fruit and flowers, with an extra savoury dimension. The rich mouthfeel is cut through with glistening Ventoux acidity, leading on to a lengthy finish.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14%
St Jean du Barroux, La Pierre Noire 2014 96
£ 30.20 Lay & Wheeler Lifted loganberry, leaf tea and tarragon. Beautifully mouthcoating, elegant and harmonious, long and svelte, with a tapered finish. Gently perfumed, beautifully balanced. It’s concentrated without overextraction, combining the elegance of the northern Rhône with the generosity of the south. A beautiful wine. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 15%
Clos de Trias, Vieilles Vignes
2012 95 £ 20 (ib) Mayfly Wine Co Vines from 65 to 100+ years old, 40% destemmed, only bottled in 2018. Meat stock, blood, iron, provocative volatile acidity giving lift to the raspberry fruit. Full, lively, distinctly salty, and it vibrates on the finish. Makes a huge impression – a song of
acidities. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 15%
Château Pesquié, Artemia 2016 95
£ 34.40 (2015) Stannary St Wine Co Two high-altitude single vineyards: one of Grenache, one Syrah. The wine spends 18 months in barrel, with 50% new oak. Tightly wound aromatics, well-integrated oak. It’s generous, with supple, intense tannins and piercing acidity. Highly concentrated but not overextracted; powerful and vivid. Will impress – but needs time. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 14%
Domaine de Piéblanc, Bouquier 2016 94
N/A UK www. domainedepieblanc.fr 50-year-old vines at 300m. No oak used. Immediately impressive aromatics of flowers, berries and a mineral dimension. Remarkable energy and freshness in a direct, snappy, enlivening style. It’s long, vivid and bright; very well balanced, no excesses – just beautifully drinkable.
Drink 2018-2022 Alc 15%
Domaine de Fondrèche, Persia 2016 93
£ 15.60-£ 21 Brunswick Fine Wines, Cru World Wine, H2Vin & Quintessentially, Noel Young, Terra Wines, Vagabond Wine Clay limestone soils, 80-yearold vines, hand-harvested, yielding 20hl/ha. Searching black fruit ingrained with oak spice. Generous in extract with piercing acidity; sleek, fresh, intense; fine, grippy tannins. Warming but balanced, very long. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 14.5%
Château Unang, La Source 2016
92 £ 11.10 Justerini & Brooks Hilltop vines planted at 350m and grown organically. Lovely nose of lifted violet and currant aromas, slightly mulled. Fresh on the palate, mouth-coating fruit, and finishes with a lick of spice. A touch warming but has real impact and complexity. Long finish. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 14.5%
Domaine des Anges, Archange 2015 92 £ 18.99 (2014) Direct Wine
Shipments From 50-year-old vines on clay limestone soils, grown at 350m. Spends a year in wooden tank and large amphora before release. Fig, plum and prune on the nose. Good aromatic detail, depth and energy on the palate, with lush tannins. Deliciously textural.
Drink 2018-2021 Alc 14%
Domaine du Bon Remède, Les Vignes Rousses 2016 92
N/A UK www. domainedubonremede.com Carignan rarely takes a leading role in Ventoux, but this cuvée pushes it forward. Soft, gentle figgy aromas, violets and old-vine vinosity. Soft, yielding style, but that Ventoux acidity gives it an edge. Atypical but a really enjoyable, balanced and characterful Ventoux. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 14.5%
Domaine du Tix, Cuvée Garrigue 2016 90
N/A UK www.domaine- du-tix. com Cuvée from young vines, currently 15 years old. The pretty strawberry and raspberry fruits are juicily ripe to begin with, then the wine finishes dry with a grip of firm tannin. Not the most complex, but has enjoyable intensity and Ventoux style. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13.5%
Marrenon, Orca 2016 90
£ 13.50 (2015) Nethergate Wines From 60- to 100-year-old vines, aged in third-use oak barrels for 12 months. Very fresh raspberry and hints of lavender. Its breadth of mouthfeel and gently warming alcohol is tempered with gentle tannins and bright acidity. A real sense of purity and finesse. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 15%